Más Misiones

Before returning to the Bay Area, Larry and I took a little drive down memory lane and visited Mulige and San Ignacio. It had been sixteen years since we had last walked through these towns. We thought of all the great times we had with our travel buddies, Jodi and Gary Horsman, on some of our earlier adventures in Baja. We also did a little drive out to Misión San Francisco Javier de Viggé-Biaundó nestled way up in a valley above Loreto.

The mission in San Ignacio dates to 1760.

The alter panels were brought from various parts of Mexico dedicated to San Ignacio de Loyola, patron of the mission (center).

The mission ceiling

St. Martin de Porres. The broom is a symbol of his devotion to his work, no matter how menial.

The Virgen de Guadalupe

The fresh water lagoon at San Igancio

The rancher that owns these horses let us know that this mare is due to foal in three weeks.

Misión San Francisco Javier de Viggé-Biaundó dates back to 1699

The mission alter panels with San Francisco Javier at the center

Every 2nd of December hundreds of pilgrims come to visit this mission and place their milagro charms here to pray for improved health

Life On The Boat In The Sea Of Cortez

As the year draws to a close, Larry & I look back at the last few amazing months with great appreciation for one of the most beautiful places in the world…the Sea of Cortez. Larry put together a compilation of our videos and we hope you enjoy it as you sip your New Year’s beverages. All the best, and here’s to smooth seas in 2022.

Just click on the underlined link below to access the video.

Hundreds of Dolphins in the Sea of Cortez

Hundreds of dolphins in the Sea of Cortez

Whale Sharks of La Paz, Baja, Mx

For many years I have wished to swim with the whale sharks and even tried years ago (unsuccessfully) in Belize. So, when I heard we were keeping the boat in La Paz, I grew cautiously optimistic, knowing that they are often found in the surrounding waters. Soon after arriving in La Paz we started asking around about when and how to see the sharks. Little did we know, that the Whale Shark tours are now highly regulated in order to protect the sharks and the industry. We further learned that you can only get to the waters they are found in with a licensed guide and as of last week, the sharks were nowhere to be seen. Then, two days ago, Larry received an email from one of the licensed companies letting him know the whale sharks were back and tours were starting up the next day. We jumped at the chance and jumped in the boat the following day.

Door to door service. The Carolina - Fun Baja ponga picks us up right at the boat

The tour was to start in the morning but the ‘first come, first serve’ on-line check-in system they use to control the ratio of boats to whale sharks bumped us to the afternoon group. When we finally set off we had only three other couples with us on the ponga, which was good, as you can only dive in groups of four or less. The next step was to check in with the controller that counts the amount of people on board and confirms the legitimacy of the guide and boat captain. This is done by parading the boat in front of the control office (on a cliff above the water) while they check us out with high powered binoculars. Once cleared, we race to the protected area where the boat slowly enters and the search is on.

Carlos explains the rules for swimming with the sharks. No touching, no diving, never get in front and stay about three feet away at all times

Another tour with swimmers with a shark

Very quickly, our guide, Carlos spots a juvenile but when we get in the water the youngster is too shy and scoots away with just a ghostly apparition in the murky water. The visibility is not what I had hoped for…certainly not the crystal clear water that they advertise in the tour promotions…but then you realize that they are feeding on all the plankton that makes the water so cloudy in the first place. Carlos (and now the whole boat) is searching eagerly for the tell-tale brown shadow that lurks right beneath the surface of the water as the sharks cruise their feeding grounds. We are envious when we see other boats find their shark and excitedly jump in the water. Finally, after almost an hour another tour boat ‘shares’ their shark. We take turns over the next hour jumping in and swimming with this languid creature that appears to not even know we are four feet from it. The gill rakers ripple and flutter as the shark inhales large gulps of water filtering out the bits of food. Hard to believe these large sharks survive on such a tiny food source. The moments swimming with the shark feel dream-like as you paddle along side in the murky water just a few arms lengths away…a truly unforgettable experience!

Our group of four returns to the ponga after 10 minutes with the shark and then the next the next group can jump in. You get three jumps per tour. Photo grab from Larry’s GoPro

The mouth of the shark gapes open and the water continually ripples through the huge gills. The coloring/patterns are amazing and distinct to each shark - like a ‘fingerprint’. Photo grab from Larry’s GoPro

Whale sharks are a true shark (cartilage not bone skeleton). They are the largest living shark and is the only member of the Rhincodontidae family. Photo grab from Larry’s GoPro

Photo grab from Larry’s GoPro

A collage of photos, as the shark is too large to get into one photo with the conditions that day. All photos courtesy of Larry’s GoPro

Happy to have had this incredible experience

Amigos

After the complications of provisioning, flat tires and rental car returns, it is a relief to head out on the water with our friends Chris and Keith. Both have spent time on the Independence before and it is great to have the crew back on board. We head north towards the spots we have scouted previously and choose anchoring spots according to the wind.

Day 1: We anchor at the neighboring Puerto Balandra and tender over to Tecolote for a cerveza

Day 2: Rum punch at Bonanza anchorage after a great snorkel at the rocks in the background

Heading north to San Evaristo

Sunset at San Evaristo

Day 3: Independence back at anchor in San Evaristo bay. We take the tender to dinner at the palapa bar.

Day 4: Isla San Francisco. We tender to the beach for the hike around the island

The winds pick up so we head back to the marina. With four footers and the wind at our stern we are joined (again) by an amazingly playful pod of dolphins. Photo by Larry

Photo by Larry

After washing down the boat the crew deserves a cold one. We celebrate a great cruise with even better friends at the pool bar back at Marina Costabaja.

Thanks amigos for coming to La Paz and cruising on Independence with us!

San Jose del Cabo, Baja, Mexico

As it is time to restock provisions on the Independence, we begin to think about a trip to Costco in San Jose del Cabo. It is only a two and half hour drive from La Paz, so we rent a car and stay the night in the sweet town and shop the following day. It just so happens that our friends Chris and Keith are flying into the San Jose del Cabo airport later that afternoon.

According to San Jose del Cabo Guide.com, Spanish sailors in the 17th and early 18th centuries would anchor their galleons at the entrance of the the mouth of the Rio San Jose in Estero San Jose to get fresh water. Evidently, as this became the norm, English pirate raids became a bit of a problem and so the Spanish felt it was time to create a permanent settlement in the Cape region. It was also a means to an end of the Guaycura and Pericu Indian uprisings that were threatening the Spanish missions of the north. After several years of battles between armed Spanish troops and the local populations (1723 to 1729) , Jesuit Padre Nicholas Tamaral founded Mission San Jose del Cabo in 1730. Padre Tamaral and the Pericus Indians lived alongside one another until the Padre denounced polygamy, which was a long tradition in the Pericu society. Padre Tamaral punished a Pericu Shaman for violating the anti-polygamy decree and the Pericu Indians rebelled and burned the mission in October of 1734 and Tamaral was killed in the attack. The Spanish then built a presidio/fort to protect its population and mission from further Indian and pirate attacks. The native Indian population in the area was virtually extinct by 1767 due to European diseases or in battles with the Spanish. After the Mexican War of Independence (freedom from Spain 1810-1821) there was then the Mexican American War (1846-1848) where Mexican Naval officer Jose Antonio Mijares won the battle against the U.S. marines on the frigate Portsmouth. The town plaza in San Jose del Cabo is named for Mijares and this is where the current mission is located, built by the farming communities in the 1930’s to the 1940’s.

San Jose del Cabo did not become a popular tourist destination until the sportfishing community discovered its bounty in the 60’s and 70’s. The main street to the town plaza was just paved last year.

The Mission San Jose del Cabo

The tile mural above the entry of the mission depicts the Pericu Indians response to Padre Tamaral’s edicts to denounce polygamy in 1730

San Jose’s town plaza - Plaza Mijares

Colorful fiesta flags line the streets of San Jose

Baja Brewing is calling

Established in 2006 and going strong

Baja Brewing kegs ready to tap or ship out to other locations. The brewery is in the background.

Great murals inside the brewery…

We like the atmosphere…the lager - not so much

Street charm. Getting ready for Dias de los Muertos

We eat Tamales from the vendors in Plaza Mijares and enjoy the fiesta atmosphere

Another great mural

These trees (Yellow Bells or Tecoma gaudichaudi) are blooming everywhere

Perhaps we bought too much at Costco.?!? We were on our way to the airport to pick up Chris and Keith when we got a flat tire. We had checked the spare ‘doughnut’ tire prior to leaving the rental office but did not check if all the parts to lift kit were there…big mistake, as there was a crucial piece missing and we could not jack-up the car.

The people in Baja are amazing. A great guy from the condo complex we stopped in front of came out with a floor jack and we could now get the spare tire on the car. Avis was great and let us swap cars at the airport and then we scooped up Chris and Keith and got them to the boat in La Paz.

Chris and Keith settling in to life on the boat…a dice game decides who will get the forward stateroom

Isla Espiritu Santo, Playa Bonanza, Caleta Partida, San Evaristo to Isla San Francisco

The boat looks good, the weather looks good and so we dash out for a few days at anchor.

Heading north west from of La Paz

Heading north west out of La Paz

Isla Espiritu Santo in the distance

Isla Espiritu Santo in the distance

We head north west to Isla Espiritu Santo (15NM). Isla Espiritu Santo became a preserve in 2003. Reading from the‘ Sea of Cortez - A Cruiser’s Guidebook’ (3rd edition) by Shawn Breeding and Heather Bansmer; they quote the Nature Conservancy as saying, “the Sea of Cortez is the second most diverse marine body in the world. It is home to 31 species of whales and dolphins - one-third of the world’s total. The region also serves as a breeding ground for sea lions and marine turtles, and is a migratory corridor for 210 bird species. Some 500 fish species, 4,848 known species of marine macro-invertebrates and 626 forms of macro algae live in the region.”

The nearly two mile beach of Playa Bonanza.

The nearly two mile beach of Playa Bonanza.

At sunset I snorkel to the beach and was excited to see a Mobula ray (sub species of the Manta ray) swimming over the sand and later a three foot (free swimming) Green eel. The beach is covered with shells, wood, very few foot prints and some sea turtle tracks where they have gone up the beach to lay their eggs and then return to the water. The next morning I snorkel around Punta la Bonanza and see two Green Sea turtles and many varieties of fish.

The Tervis cups come in handy on these warm nights for sunset cocktails

The Tervis cups come in handy on these warm nights for sunset cocktails

The sunset over Playa Bonanza

The sunset over Playa Bonanza

The view on our way north to the next anchorage

The view on our way north to the next anchorage

20211001_114355.jpg
20211001_115138.jpg
20211001_122314.jpg
Entering the anchorage at Caleta Partida

Entering the anchorage at Caleta Partida

20211001_124201.jpg
The Independence at anchor in Caleta Partida

The Independence at anchor in Caleta Partida

We set anchor at Caleta Partida in the afternoon (16NM). According to our cruising guide, Caleta Partida is a crater from an extinct volcano, which over thousands of years eventually eroded below the level of the sea, losing its western and eastern edges.

Time for a tender ride

Time for a tender ride

Heading in toward Ensenada del Candelero

Heading in toward Ensenada del Candelero

Roca Monumento at Ensenada del Candelero

Roca Monumento at Ensenada del Candelero

20211001_151640.jpg
The inner bay of Ensenada del Candelero

The inner bay of Ensenada del Candelero

20211001_151955.jpg
We will come back to this amazing bay in hopes of spending the day snorkeling and exploring these beautiful waters

We will come back to this amazing bay in hopes of spending the day snorkeling and exploring these beautiful waters

Sunrise at Caleta Partida

Sunrise at Caleta Partida

The views of Baja’s Sierra de la Giganta from the Canal de San Jose

The views of Baja’s Sierra de la Giganta from the Canal de San Jose

We cruise from Caleta Partida to San Evaristo (30NM). There is a bit of a chop today…about 3 feet. We set the hook in the afternoon and then blow up our new inflatable kayak for its maiden voyage to the beach

The palapa bar and restaurant at San Evaristo. The Independence at anchor in the distance

The palapa bar and restaurant at San Evaristo. The Independence at anchor in the distance

Heading back to the boat as the sun begins to set

Heading back to the boat as the sun begins to set

Sunrise at San Evaristo

Sunrise at San Evaristo

The little fishing village of San Evaristo has about 20 families. The a desalination plant is the blue & white building in the picture above.

The little fishing village of San Evaristo has about 20 families. The a desalination plant is the blue & white building in the picture above.

On our way south to our next anchorage Larry catches a Skipjack in the Canal de San Jose

On our way south to our next anchorage Larry catches a Skipjack in the Canal de San Jose

Isla San Francisco is our last anchorage (9NM) on this trip out

Isla San Francisco is our last anchorage (9NM) on this trip out

We hike to the top of hill to see the views…Independence is the boat at the farthest end (north end) of the bay

We hike to the top of hill to see the views…Independence is the boat at the farthest end (north end) of the bay

A panoramic shot from the top gives you the idea of the amazing views we had

A panoramic shot from the top gives you the idea of the amazing views we had

Yes, we wear goofy hats to protect us from the intense Baja sun

Yes, we wear goofy hats to protect us from the intense Baja sun

In between the bays are the salt flats

In between the bays are the salt flats

The plants in Baja can appear dead but they are very much alive. They protect themselves from the intense weather and predators with thorny, thick or waxy exteriors

The plants in Baja can appear dead but they are very much alive. They protect themselves from the intense weather and predators with thorny, thick or waxy exteriors

View over the ridge line

View over the ridge line

Looking back at the apex of the trail

Looking back at the apex of the trail

My model with the jumping cholla cactus

My model with the jumping cholla cactus

Bursera microphylla is called the Elephant tree or ‘torote’. The thickness of the tree is for water storage.

Bursera microphylla is called the Elephant tree or ‘torote’. The thickness of the tree is for water storage.

The sculpture of the Elephant tree with the salt flats in the distance

The sculpture of the Elephant tree with the salt flats in the distance

Desert views

Desert views

An Elephant tree with berries

An Elephant tree with berries

Pickleweed in the salt flats

Pickleweed in the salt flats

The crusty salt flats lead us back to the beach

The crusty salt flats lead us back to the beach

Today’s beautiful blue water is perfect for using the new kayak

Today’s beautiful blue water is perfect for using the new kayak

Perhaps it might be a bit too short for Larry’s long legs…It perfect for me…

Perhaps it might be a bit too short for Larry’s long legs…It’s perfect for me…

Sunset at Isla San Francisco

Sunset at Isla San Francisco

Playa Day

After all Larry’s preparation and hard work getting the bottom paint completed and returning the boat to the marina we decide on a beach day. We only have the rental car for another day, so it’s off toward Pichilingue and Playa El Tecolote we go.

The murals continue as you drive toward the beaches…a good message here…’Clean Your Beaches’

The murals continue as you drive toward the beaches…a good message here…’Clean Your Beaches’

Sunday beach day at El Tecolote Playa

Sunday beach day at El Tecolote Playa

Beach dog with a smart haircut laying in the cool sand

Beach dog with a smart haircut laying in the cool sand

End-of-the-day sunlight on the hills behind the playa

End-of-the-day sunlight on the hills behind the playa

Out, About and Back In

I am happy to report that the Independence came through her Mexican haul-out with only a few snags, which I am sure you will read in a Captain’s Post soon. I am just here to say that her underside looks great and we anticipate the bottom paint to last approximately a year and half to two years. During the haul-out we stayed at the lovely ‘Hotel Catedral’. Centrally located to the malecon and restaurants and only a few minutes drive to the boat yard. Larry worked alongside the muchachos from 9 to 5 and after that we had time to walk around and enjoy La Paz. After four days on the hard we were back in the water and heading back to the marina. There remains only a few random chores and items to complete and then we can head out for a couple of excursions to explore these beautiful waters.

In the channel in front of La Paz heading to the boat yard

In the channel in front of La Paz heading to the boat yard

The city of La Paz

The city of La Paz

Waiting for the hoist

Waiting for the hoist

The straps are lowered and the muchachos guide us by the iines into the cradle (a free diver in the water positions the straps to be sure they are clear of the stabilizers)

The straps are lowered and the muchachos guide us by the iines into the cradle (a free diver in the water positions the straps to be sure they are clear of the stabilizers)

Larry takes a look at the work to be done

Larry takes a look at the work to be done

Not a great deal of paint remaining on the bottom

Not a great deal of paint remaining on the bottom

Pressure washing and sanding ahead, followed by paint and new zinks

Pressure washing and sanding ahead, followed by paint and new zinks

Boat lift ‘Don Jose’ is home for the Independence for the next four days

Boat lift ‘Don Jose’ is home for the Independence for the next four days

Sunset murals after the rain

Sunset murals after the rain

When you see someone wander into a doorway with an empty bottle and they come out with it full, you have to investigate. It turned out to be one of the owners of La Miserable - a Mezcaleria. We learned a bit about Mezcal and tasted this proprietary batch of ‘stink-bug’ Cupreata Mezcal. Yes, those black blobs in the bottle are stink bugs and they give the Mescal a slightly almond flavor. Even though this Mescal was not particularly smokey…I think we will stick with Tequila.

When you see someone wander into a doorway with an empty bottle and they come out with it full, you have to investigate. It turned out to be one of the owners of La Miserable - a Mezcaleria. We learned a bit about Mezcal and tasted this proprietary batch of ‘stink-bug’ Cupreata Mezcal. Yes, those black blobs in the bottle are stink bugs and they give the Mescal a slightly almond flavor. Even though this Mescal was not particularly smokey…I think we will stick with Tequila.

The charming bar at La Miserable

The charming bar at La Miserable

Yet another of the amazing murals

Yet another of the amazing murals

Construction on the Malecon was almost complete during our initial visit. This was a recently installed sculpture…one of my favorite

Construction on the Malecon was almost complete during our initial visit. This was a recently installed sculpture…one of my favorite

The back/underside of the Manta Ray sculpture

The back/underside of the Manta Ray sculpture

The view from our Hotel Catedral of the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de La Paz. Thought to be built on the original location of the first Jesuit Mission in La Paz; the Cathedral was initially constructed in 1861 and its construction lasted until 1865.

The view from our Hotel Catedral of the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de La Paz. Thought to be built on the original location of the first Jesuit Mission in La Paz; the Cathedral was initially constructed in 1861 and its construction lasted until 1865.

Sacred heart cross in the gardens

Sacred heart cross in the gardens

The two towers of the Cathedral were added later. One in 1910 and the other in 1920

The two towers of the Cathedral were added later. One in 1910 and the other in 1920

Beautiful relief sculpture of Jesus as you enter the Cathedral

Beautiful relief sculpture of Jesus as you enter the Cathedral

Eight o’clock mass

Eight o’clock mass

The Virgen de Guadalupe in relief on the other side of the entrance

The Virgen de Guadalupe in relief on the other side of the entrance

The beautiful stained glass windows of the cathedral look amazing in the evening

The beautiful stained glass windows of the cathedral look amazing in the evening

The fans provide a little breeze for the devout

The fans provide a little breeze for the devout

An offering made…we take our leave

An offering made…we take our leave

Came upon another mural

Came upon another mural

Look at that shiny prop and pretty bottom paint!

Look at that shiny prop and pretty bottom paint!

Full moon over Marina Costabaja

Full moon over Marina Costabaja

Regresamos...

We have been back at the boat for nearly a week now, in La Paz, Baja, Mexico. We are happy to report that the people of La Paz are doing well and the only COVID mandates that appear to be in place are; masking indoors and at restaurants/bars before seating. The staff in all service industries are still required to wear masks, as well. The malecon and all beaches have reopened and charter boats and tours are all running again. We were also thankful to see that the boat and it’s canvases were in good condition after the strong winds of the previous week. We thought we were taking a stroll down easy street for about 24 hours and then Larry noticed that our raw water intake strainer had sprung a leak…not so easy. We spent the day chasing down a replacement part and then Larry thankfully got the part installed that same day. This normally would not be such a big deal but we can not run our air conditioning without this strainer and it is currently 95 degrees in La Paz. Larry earned his cerveza that day! With that project completed we decide to take the boat out and get our sea-legs back and make sure all systems are functioning properly. We take a short run (7 NM) over to a pretty harbor called Puerto Balandra and anchor for the night. We did a little snorkel and took the tender out to the local palapa bar and came back and had a nice dinner on the boat. It was wonderful to get back out on the water even for a short trip. Tomorrow we take the boat to a local boatyard to get the bottom painted. We will be on site for the next five long, hot days…I think there will be a Captain’s Post coming soon…

Happy to be back in beautiful La Paz…Independence Day was September 16th…Viva Mexico! Image courtesy of Office Holidays Ltd.

Happy to be back in beautiful La Paz…Independence Day was September 16th…Viva Mexico! Image courtesy of Office Holidays Ltd.

My eco-guide points out the turtle nests on our local beach at Costabaja. The nests are netted and fenced to protect them from predators and reckless humans

My eco-guide points out the turtle nests on our local beach at Costabaja. The nests are netted and fenced to protect them from predators and reckless humans

20210913_181653.jpg
Turtle tracks to her nest…soon to be better protected with nets and fencing

Turtle tracks to her nest…soon to be better protected with nets and fencing

Don’t forget to do the ‘Stingray Shuffle’ while entering the water

Don’t forget to do the ‘Stingray Shuffle’ while entering the water

Just a little picnic on the beach…(our marina is in the background)

Just a little picnic on the beach…(our marina is in the background)

That troublesome raw water intake strainer…Larry is sure to do a Captain’s post regarding this adventure.

That troublesome raw water intake strainer…Larry is sure to do a Captain’s post regarding this adventure.

The pretty harbor of Puerto Balandra

The pretty harbor of Puerto Balandra

Independence sporting her new window shades

Independence sporting her new window shades

The saguaro cactus and green plants look very happy after all the recent rain

The saguaro cactus and green plants look very happy after all the recent rain

Beautiful rock formations with Independence in the distance

Beautiful rock formations with Independence in the distance

Time to give the Tender a run-about

Time to give the Tender a run-about

Pelicans in the harbor

Pelicans in the harbor

The well-visited ‘mushroom rock “El Hongo” in the distance

The well-visited ‘mushroom rock “El Hongo” in the distance

A not so distant cerveza at palapa bar Isla Partida

A not so distant cerveza at palapa bar Isla Partida

Palapa bars and happy Independence Day revelers

Palapa bars and happy Independence Day revelers

Sunrise at Puerto Balandra

Sunrise at Puerto Balandra

Chile relleno con mariscos at a favorite restaurant ‘The Bismarck’…(thanks to Rob & Sharron Grant for keeping my cerveza cold!)

Chile relleno con mariscos at a favorite restaurant ‘The Bismarck’…(thanks to Rob & Sharron Grant for keeping my cerveza cold!)

Tomorrow’s haul out site…

Tomorrow’s haul out site…

Captain's Post #14 - The Waiting Game - Hurricane Nora

By Larry McCullough

As my prior post stated, and the video showed, Independence was shipped to La Paz, Mexico through the Panama Canal and is at a very good marina as I type. But also as I type, the anxiety level has been quite high recently, as Nora is knocking on the door. No, Nora is not a relative that only shows up when they want something, Nora is a hurricane!

Let me back up a bit…

Within 10 days of meeting the Independence in La Paz (this past July) we had to get back home to California for the memorial service for my buddy Dan. If you have read prior posts you might remember that Dan passed away on Mt. Tamalpais in Marin County, while Jamie and I were returning the boat to Florida from Roatan, Honduras (due to COVID). We found out about Dan half way through the trip while we were off the coast of Cuba via a short text over our InReach satellite communicator.

Okay, now back to the present….

Once we made it back home from La Paz, we heard the news reports of passport delays, due to…you guessed it….COVID. Damn! Well, I hemmed and hawed but quickly sent off my soon to expire passport. I used an expediting service and also paid the U.S. State Department fees for an expedited passport. I am very happy to say I received my new passport this week, exactly one month after sending it in.

Jamie and I knew that we would not be able to make it back down to La Paz for a couple of months so we asked around our marina and made contact with a Captain of a large yacht. After doing some due diligence we gave him a tour of the boat, engine starting procedure, where extra dock lines were and how to prepare Independence in case of a large storm…Hello Nora!

Since arriving home I have been keeping an eye on the weather, at least once a day which now has changed to two or three times a day and will be increasing over the next few days. It has been an educational experience, to go along with the many other educational experiences over the last several years with Independence, some good and some bad. It is fascinating watching storms develop off the coast of Southern Mexico in the Pacific and work their way north. I have watched many storms develop over the last couple of months but as they have moved north, they have also moved west, not Nora though.

If anybody says “Let’s go to a beautiful island 370 miles off of Mexico - Isla Socorro”, check the time of year and the weather reports. It gets hammered by storms as it is positioned right in the predominant path of tropical storms from June to November. This island is supposed to be beautiful with great scuba diving and bird watching.

Nora is hugging the Pacific Coast of Mexico as she has rambles north and is anticipated to reach hurricane force as she heads North to the Sea of Cortez. On Thursday the “eye” of Nora was anticipated by some weather services to go right over Cabo San Lucas and then move straight up the Baja Peninsula to La Paz. Thankfully, the anticipated track has moved farther east, forecasting the eye to be about 20 miles east of La Paz.

Hurricanes, as you probably know, are low pressure systems which rotate winds in a counterclockwise direction. The strongest winds are east of the eye. weather services will tell you “sustained” winds and wind gusts. On Friday Nora’s forecasted sustained winds were approximately 50 knots (a knot equals 1.15 statute miles) with gusts to 70! With the eye moving east, and the anticipated strength reducing, the forecast is now (Saturday) for 25 knots sustained and gusts to 47 knots at the height of the storm.

We have done what we can. We placed extra fenders, both tied to the dock and tied to the boat, extra lines out and have arranged to now have the Bimini canvas top and all the other canvas removed from the exterior of the boat. The captain watching Independence has assured us all will be fine, he has done the preparation we discussed. We are scheduled to fly to La Paz in a couple of weeks, but in the mean time, all we can do is wait and hope that Nora calms down and acts like a lady!

Windy Nora.png

North Palm Beach, Florida - Shipping Day!!!

Patience finally pays off and after a month of waiting we are given a ship date. We fly back to the Independence in the North Palm Beach Marina. We ready the boat for shipping by getting rid of perishables and extra fuel. Strapping down the tender and taking down the bimini canvas. Heavy and fragile items are stowed and voids in cupboards are filled with towels and pillows. Lockers are taped shut and finally the refrigerator is turned-off and batteries shut down. We actually had a few days delay in between all that, but finally, we get the green light and get her to the Daisy and will see her in a couple weeks in La Paz, Baja, Mexico.

During our last few days at the North Palm Beach Marina we (Nordhavn CP59-01 Independence) were joined by Nordhavn CP59-03 Steadfast and Nordhavn CP59-04 Katherina…just missing Nordhavn CP59-02 Karma. There are only four of us…

During our last few days at the North Palm Beach Marina we (Nordhavn CP59-01 Independence) were joined by Nordhavn CP59-03 Steadfast and Nordhavn CP59-04 Katherina…just missing Nordhavn CP59-02 Karma. There are only four of us…

A cloudy day drive-by photo of the Daisy finally in port and getting ready to unload her cargo

A cloudy day drive-by photo of the Daisy finally in port and getting ready to unload her cargo

A sunny day drive-by…still unloading…

A sunny day drive-by…still unloading…

While the Daisy unloads we prep the Independence for our ship date. Who says we have too many throw pillows…

While the Daisy unloads we prep the Independence for our ship date. Who says we have too many throw pillows…

We have been advised to tape our cupboards closed

We have been advised to tape our cupboards closed

Finally, time to meet the Daisy…Peter McNamee comes along for the ride

Finally, time to meet the Daisy…Peter McNamee comes along for the ride

We are to pull along-side the Daisy and tie (bow & stern) to the lines they toss down to us

We are to pull along-side the Daisy and tie (bow & stern) to the lines they toss down to us

Peter checks out how the diver works the straps into positions on the boat in front of us. After they are in place the boat will be lifted by the crane and placed onto the ship

Peter checks out how the diver works the straps into positions on the boat in front of us. After they are in place the boat will be lifted by the crane and placed onto the ship

There are some fenders down there I promise…

There are some fenders down there I promise…

Lines secure we await our turn

Lines secure we await our turn

She looks rather pretty awaiting her vacation

She looks rather pretty awaiting her vacation

The straps are in place and they will hoist this 76 foot sport fisher soon

The straps are in place and they will hoist this 76 foot sport fisher soon

Gives you an idea of how large the Daisy is…482 feet long and 70 feet wide

Gives you an idea of how large the Daisy is…482 feet long and 70 feet wide

We are next on the lift but can’t stick around for the show…good luck Independence…see you in La Paz!

We are next on the lift but can’t stick around for the show…good luck Independence…see you in La Paz!

They sent us a picture of the Independence loaded and strapped down and ready for transport

They sent us a picture of the Independence loaded and strapped down and ready for transport

If You Make Plans, You Can Be Sure That They Will Change

To those who might be thinking “why are we like a boomerang, always returning to Florida?”, I will now explain. When we left for the Bahamas our intention was to explore the islands and cays for a few months and then head north toward Maine and eventually put the Independence on a transfer ship in Rhode Island bound for the west coast. Well, as we began to spend days at anchor we realized that our batteries were not holding a charge very well. In addition, with the short, low RPM hops between anchorages we were also not able to use the engines to get them up to a full charge. This led us to using the generator more and more to keep the batteries charged and soon enough the writing was on the wall - a whole new battery array was soon to be in our future. This is not an unheard of event as boat batteries, like cars, must be changed every few years and it just so happened that now is the time for ours to be swapped out. So back to Florida we go. We arrive at ‘Nordhavn Central’, which is now Safe Harbor North Palm Beach Marina. After replacing the batteries we take advantage of being in Florida and have a little fun with our great friends Connie and Rich (thanks for making the drive across the state!). Now is the waiting game for when we can load the boat onto the transfer ship (now out of Fort Lauderdale). We will head back to Marin for a few weeks and hope for a load date around the first week of June. We are excited to think about receiving the boat in La Paz, Mexico and being able to explore Baja with all of our west coast friends and family. Well…that’s the plan any how!

The Garmin ‘inReach’ showing our track around the Bahamas and our ‘boomerang’ back to Florida

The Garmin ‘inReach’ showing our track around the Bahamas and our ‘boomerang’ back to Florida

Larry and the Nordhavn crew removing the old batteries

Larry and the Nordhavn crew removing the old batteries

We rented a truck to put the old batteries in for return….The larger of these batteries weigh 175 pounds each!!!

We rented a truck to put the old batteries in for return….The larger of these batteries weigh 175 pounds each!!!

The entrance to the ICW and to Safe Harbor North Palm Beach Marina (at the white building) as seen from Parker Bridge

The entrance to the ICW and to Safe Harbor North Palm Beach Marina (at the white building) as seen from Parker Bridge

A baby Iguana tucked in a palm tree…the smallest one I have ever seen - less than a foot long

A baby Iguana tucked in a palm tree…the smallest one I have ever seen - less than a foot long

A little Tequila Tasting with Rich and Connie Dancaster on the back deck of the Independence

A little Tequila Tasting with Rich and Connie Dancaster on the back deck of the Independence

Chub Cay to Bimini to North Palm Beach, Florida - Bye, Bye, Bahamas

The winds have calmed and crossing to Bimini via the North Channel goes smoothly (74NM). We anchor at a nice little bay in front of Bimini and have a quiet night on the hook. Morning brings unexpected showers but not a great deal of wind and we are once again in clear skies within the hour. It is a good reminder of how to use our radar system and fog horn. Larry puts the fishing line in and catches a small Mahi Mahi, which he kindly releases to grow a bit bigger. We enter the Lake Worth inlet to crazy-busy Saturday marine traffic…sport fishers flying by, jet skis jumping boat wakes, paddle boarders & kayaks floating in the channel…who knew the most challenging part of the cruise would be getting from the inlet to the North Palm Beach Marina (77NM)

Bye, bye Bahamas…we will miss you

Bye, bye Bahamas…we will miss you

Getting a refresher course on the radar, etc.

Getting a refresher course on the radar, etc.

Low visibility . Rainy but not windy.

Low visibility . Rainy but not windy.

20210501_075149.jpg
An hour later and it’s like this….I will miss these beautiful waters

An hour later and it’s like this….I will miss these beautiful waters

Saturday on the water in North Palm Beach, Florida

Saturday on the water in North Palm Beach, Florida

Frigate’s is a nice place to grab a cold one and you can take your tender to it

Frigate’s is a nice place to grab a cold one and you can take your tender to it

Safe Harbor North Palm Beach Marina…Nordhavn central!!!

Safe Harbor North Palm Beach Marina…Nordhavn central!!!

Wish list…CP59 - 04 sister ship has a breast plate & bow anchor protector…#boatblingenvy

Wish list…CP59 - 04 sister ship has a breast plate & bow anchor protector…#boatblingenvy