Captain's Post #22 - Campbell River to Port McNeill, BC, Canada (101NM)

By Larry McCullough

Leaving Campbell River and heading towards Seymour Narrows

I must say it has been a very interesting month with the new boat. As with all things new, which have any complexities, some bugs must be worked out - this is to be expected. The main thing is to work them out, solve the problem and then move onto the next one. Life Proof has been working with us to solve the problems now or when we return south in a few months, thank you Life Proof.

Jamie has kept you updated on the trip up to yesterday….

The dashed line shows our route up to date

Let me tell you about yesterday! We left Campbell River just before 7AM under ideal conditions, I had read about Seymour Narrows and felt very comfortable with the passage, even more so than when we did Malibu Rapids aboard the original Independence. We arrived at the Narrows at slack tide and rode an outgoing tide all the way to Port McNeill, 100 miles. Even with the idle time going in and out of the marinas we made it in exactly 3 hours! That is far from the whole story…

I use the “Windy” app which has some great features, for longtime readers you might remember me singing their praise when we returned from Honduras to Florida due to COVID shutting down Central America (see May 8th, 2020, Captain’s Post #8) and when we left San Jose del Cabo to Ensenada (see May 21st, 2022 Captain’s Post #15), I plotted wave heights, winds, currents etc.. Up here I use many of the same features, but I wondered why there was a blank zone on their map in the Johnstone Strait area, which we went through yesterday.

The blank zone on Windy with the crazy currents in Johnstone Straits

I think I figured out why, they can’t predict the wave heights or wind all that accurately. As we were cruising I was surprised by the wave heights in the mixing zones where the outgoing tides met in Johnstone Straits. At one point it became so rough we slowed down to an idle and went up an estimated 4 foot wave, down the steep backside and were immediately met with another 4 footer that was scooped up by the bow and headed straight for the windshield…and then another and another. Jamie later said she was grateful that there were no logs being scooped up.

Up….

…down….

…up…!

Just one of many…at least this large log has a nice bird standing on it to warn us

The windshield, or should I say waveshield, did the job, obviously or I would not be writing about the experience. To be honest, I must say there was a slight pucker factor, but I was not that worried because the angles of the wind shield deflect the water very well and the glass is very thick. There are many stories in the Pacific Northwest about inferior boats having their windshields smashed in. We did take in a bit of water from in the forward hatch, but Jamie was not very upset because it dumped on my side of the bed. This was a very unusual situation to put the boat through, but then again maybe not up here with these crazy currents.

Tomorrow is another adventure, we will leave Port McNeill around 6:30AM and plan to round Cape Caution, right up there with the Point Conception pucker factor. We waited for very favorable conditions then, when we did that passage in the original Independence 4 years ago, and tomorrow’s conditions also look very favorable. It is good that Windy has a yearly subscription because if I had to pay per visit I would be broke.

I am sure some of you are wondering about fuel prices. Yesterday we topped the tank off and paid $6.20 US per gallon, about the same price I imagine it is back home at a Chevron station but way cheaper than the marinas back home.

A couple well deserved cold ones at Gus’ Pub

Vancouver to Pender Harbour to Campbell River, BC Canada (118NM)

We depart Vancouver (False Creek & English Bay) on Victoria Day and are met with some bouncy water as we transit Burrard Inlet and head North up the Strait of Georgia toward Pender Harbour. The water calms as we enter the inner bays and dock at the first-come, first-serve Hospital Bay Public Wharf. We walk up to town and find the city in party mode for their 81st May Day, which celebrates the arrival of spring and is the Sunshine Coast’s oldest and longest-running event. The festival is grand community gathering with a classic car parade, home-made go carts, stilt walkers and dunk tanks, face painters and beer gardens. As we return to the dock we find fisherman at the Commercial Dock selling live Spot Prawns. Two pounds of prawns end up on the back deck BBQ of Independence II and dinner is in the pot.

The next day we get an early start and cross the Strait of Georgia to Campbell River. An amazingly fast and enjoyable crossing. The boat does so great in short tight chop, getting incredible gas mileage of 1 gallon to 1 mile while averaging 35 MPH.

The Captain concentrating on navigating the waves of the Strait of Georgia

An occasional bounce…or two…

…leaves me with some clean-up on arrival…

Entering the beautiful bays of Pender Harbour

Pender Harbour May Day Festival…stilt walkers, street food, music and fun….

…including some very cool home crafted go carts

Back deck view from Independence II docked at the Hospital Bay Public Wharf

The freshest prawns I have ever had (and our first Spot Prawns!). From snapping in the bag to boiling in the pot and then dropped on top the salad…so delicious!

Beautiful evening light on the waters of Pender Harbour

Departing Pender Harbour for Campbell River

Campbell River Bald Eagles over the Native American Cemetery

Aviation still thriving on Tyee Spit

Victoria to Oak Bay to Sidney to Vancouver, BC, Canada (96.2NM)

A little windy and wavy exiting Victoria harbor but following winds calmed our transit to Oak Bay. We pulled into the Royal Victoria Yacht Club and enjoyed a nice bar dinner and chat with the members of this great club. Very warm and personable and so happy our club the SFYC enjoys a reciprocal relationship with this world class club!

The following day we transit for an overnight at Port Sidney, such a sweet spot in this good weather we are enjoying.

From Sidney we wind though the islands and across the Strait of Georgia over to Vancouver. Traveling at our ‘new’ normal speed of 25 to 30 MPH takes some getting used to. Our current rule is NEVER take your eyes off the water. Well, at least not both of us at the same time. The amount of debris in the water around here is crazy and traveling at this fast speed is pretty stressful as the consequences are frightening.

We gather from the locals, at the Royal Victoria Yacht Club, that this little seaplane is headed to Victoria for a movie or series being filmed in town. It was too windy to get her in safely earlier today but they did depart later in the afternoon when the winds had calmed.

The charming Royal Victoria Yacht Club in Oak Bay. Thank you for your hospitality!

Port Sydney Harbor. Independence II at the end of the first finger.

Sweet but smelly. Our Harbor Seal dock friend.

Entering Vancouver Harbour under Lyons bridge

About to empty the wallet at the Chevron float in Victoria Harbour

If we pump it faster perhaps it won’t hurt so much!!!

Gorgeous day in Victoria Harbour

Tugs pulling tugs out of the harbor

Around the corner and under Granville Street Bridge up False Creek to the Quayside Marina

After cleaning up the boat we take one of the little harbor ferries toward Granville Island. We can not get all the way to the island as a women was threatening to jump from the bridge. Above these charming floating homes, you can see that there are no cars on the bridge span. The bridge and water below and all areas within a viewpoint were cordoned off to prevent gawkers and social media posting of this sensitive situation. Thousands of people were affected by the road closure. Unfortunately, the story ended sadly with the woman’s death by falling from the Granville Street Bridge after 9 hours of effort to save her.

The farthest we can go due to all the closures is the Sand Bar Restaurant. But they have amazing dinner salads with Ahi and Prawns.

Quayside Marina dock friend Great Blue Heron

Finally made it to Granville Island

The dog of Granville Market

Bremerton to Kirkland, Lake Union, Port Townsend, WA to Victoria, Canada (187NM)

We depart Bremerton the last week of April, after some warranty work on the boat and head to Lake Union through the Hiram M. Chittenden Locks.  We have not gone through a lock in a long time but the approximately, 26 foot up-lock goes smoothly from the waters of Puget Sound into the welcome fresh water of Lake Union, WA.  We ride up in the small lock with one other boat and it only takes us a short 15ish minutes.  The lock masters are very informative and quite patient, directing you to the proper side of the lock and the proper ‘button’ to wrap your line onto and when to exit the lock.  After an overnight in Kirkland we make our way to the Southern end of Lake Union to Chandler’s Cove Marina. Cruising right by the floating home from the movie Sleepless in Seattle and then dock in the shadow of the Seattle Space Needle.  Here we meet up with Dawn & John Owen, friends from our San Francisco Yacht Club.  They have purchased a beautiful Riviera boat named ‘Calypso’ and we are looking forward to ‘buddy boating’ with them after we enjoy the Seattle area for a bit.

Almost to the top of the small Hiram M. Chittenden Lock (for lock details see May 8th, 2024)

Just one night at the City Dock in Kirkland, as it was a bit exposed to wind and wave chop for a good night’s sleep…

…but, the Central Tavern Bar hit the mark for us!

Picturesque cruise into South Lake Union

Cruising by the floating home from the movie Sleepless in Seattle (1993)

Chandler’s Cove Marina, a fantastic location for hopping around Seattle

John & Dawn and their beautiful boat Calypso

A fantastic surprise visit from Natalie & Jess Nelson ! So we took them on a boat ride through the ‘cut’ to the log boom and back

We just so happened to be in town for Seattle Yacht Club’s Opening Day festivities - they know how to thow a party!

The dogs of SYC Opening Day

I passed my ‘Canada Quiz’ to be able to proceed down the dock to the Canadian Party…plenty of Poutine & Molson!

Playing tourist in Seattle…Space Needle visit….

…followed by a visit to Pike Place Market…

…followed by a beer at The Cyclops

Down locking with John & Dawn

Docked at Port Townsend for a night

A bouncy crossing to Victoria, Canada

After checking in with Canadian Customs, at the Raymur Dock, we tie up at our fabulous dock site at the base of The Empress Hotel

Beautiful sunset at Victoria Harbor

Good fun with our cruising buddies, John & Dawn

Nice views from the boat tonight

Like I said, what a great location!!!

The Q Bar at The Empress Hotel has been remodeled since our last visit two years ago…I like this more stately decor that resonates with the old Bengal Bar shuttered in 2016.

Great martini’s - Thank you J&D!!!

These charming little ferries that you see all over the harbor are called Pickle Boats that date from 1996. There are only 14 but it seems as if there are twice that number. I heard they offer a Pub Tour….

So naturally, we have to do the Pickle Pub Boat Tour!!!

Highly recommend the Pickle Boat Pub Tour. Two harbor crossing and four pub stops.

Cross the harbor to Fisherman’s Village for our second stop on the crawl

Sunday is Pickle Boat water ballet in the harbor at 10:30AM

Busy Victoria Harbor…love those de Havilland Beavers!

Parting shots…

Shakedown Cruise

As of the first of May, we will have had ownership of the Independence II for almost two months and spent at least two weeks on her during that time.  She has been outfitted with our personal belongings, the galley is furnished, tools and fishing gear are stowed and the fridge, freezer and Yeti are full to capacity…and she’s still floating!!!

The first load of ALL of our stuff driven from Tiburon, CA to Port Orchard, WA. The Jeep was FULL and now it has all been transferred onto Independence II and she is still floating!

Most importantly, the galley coffee station is ready!

Our Shake Down cruise was the third week of March to the sweet little town of Poulsbo, WA (think Nordhavn Rendezvous in 2024).  The daily temperature, on average, was in the mid 50’s (F) while Tiburon, CA was 90 (F) degrees!!!  We had a nice chilly, brief overnight and then raced back to the safety of our slip at the Bremerton Marina as a big and windy squall was due over the next few days.

A bit on the chilly side, but that doesn’t stop us…

Birthday Beers at Valholl Brewing in Poulsbo, WA

7:00PM…time for bed…this town is REALLY quiet…

Great Blue Heron silhouette at twilight

During our Shake Down we identified a few issues that have been, and are being, addressed by our friends at Life Proof.  In between appointments we have also cruised to the massive marina in Everette, WA to pick-up a downrigger and other fishing gear and the charming towns of Winslow (Bainbridge Island) and Gig Harbor for quick hellos to local friends.

Independence II docked at the Port Everette Marina

The historic Weyerhaeuser Building moved to this location in 2016 and has been restored and reopened as ‘The Muse’ a coffee & whiskey house. Worth a visit.

One of the moves of The Weyerhaeuser Building in 1938 on two scows, then three tugboats pulled it through the harbor and up the Snohomish River to the east side of Everett. Info courtesy Forest History Society

Of course the Pacific Northwest meant lumber back in the day (1900’s) and if you worked in the mills long enough you probably were short a few fingers before you could count to 10

Views from the walking path around the Port Everette Marina

Chris and Sue took time from their busy schedule to buzz on over to Winslow (Bainbridge Island) for lunch.

Thank you Saani and Scott for coming to Gig Harbor and hangin’ out on the new Independence II

Dragon boats at Gig Harbor getting ready for a charity event

Awesome views of Mount Rainier at Gig Harbor

The big Merc’s cruising through the PNW waters

In total we have gone 150NM on the new boat.  The rule is to vary the engine speeds for 25 hours and then have the oil changed on those massive Merc 600 V12 engines.  Also, known as the “break-in” period.  We will have the engines serviced in Seattle, as we head there tomorrow.  We will eventually meet our friends from Marin, CA. to celebrate Opening Day at the Seattle Yacht Club the first weekend of May.  Fun times ahead!

When the anchor is down or the lines are on the dock…time for a Don Lorenzo & a cold one…Cheers!

Captain’s Post #19 - Update on Property Tax Appeal

Well, I hope you all had a Merry Christmas.  As promised here is an update on the Property Tax Appeal.  It has been an interesting few months.  I believe you all know by now that I am very upset with the County of Marin, specifically by the Marine Division of the Assessor’s Office, and let’s also mention my County Supervisor who would not even return an email.  I will mention that there have been a handful of people I have dealt with that have been very nice and helpful.

In the last post I gave an explanation to what has occurred over the last 2 years with the Assessor and now I will give an update on the August hearing that was for my 2024 tax assessment on Independence.

Before I forget, Hello Ric Rosales (the Marine Assessor I have been dealing with), since your minion mentioned visiting the website!

One week before the December 12th hearing of my 2023 assessment of Independence I received an email from the Marin Assessment Appeals Board stating that the Assessor was requesting a postponement of the hearing on the 12th. That was the last thing I wanted, a postponement to February or March, I declined. Within an hour or so I received a ruling about my 2024 assessment that said I would now be assessed at the reduced rate of $1,500,000.  However, the specifics were left out regarding whether Sales Tax was being added or not, a sizable difference.  Either way, I felt some form of victory, as now I had spoiled Rosales’ self-reported “perfect record of never losing a case”.  His attempt at intimidation failed.

I had done a tremendous amount of preparation for the Dec 12th hearing, countless hours, I was ready, maybe too ready. Jamie and I arrived at 8:45AM and we did not have our hearing until 3:30PM. I must say, it was very interesting hearing the other cases that all involved real estate (houses/condos). I found the Assessor for Real Estate to be quite reasonable and at times very sympathetic, as he tried to work with the homeowners. He spent hours at an elderly gentleman’s home (our assessor refused to make an in-person inspection of the wear and tear on our boat). I started to like this assessor, as he was very reasonable and I must say accommodating. After the lunch break we were walking back to the hearing at the same time, and I told him I thought he had a tough job and how I thought he was very nice to that man.

Now our story. As mentioned, we were not heard until 3:30PM, the last case of the day. I started off by reading my rights as a taxpayer. Within a few minutes I was told by the ranking Appeals Board member to speed it up, as “we have this in writing you don’t need to read it”. I went on to present my case, we were appealing the assessment value of Independence, the penalty and the interest charge.

For valuation, I had very detailed drawings comparing my boat, a 59-foot Nordhavn Coastal Pilot, to a 60-foot Nordhavn trawler, which is what the (Marine) Assessor used as a comp in August. The 60-foot is totally different in many ways, principally weighing 69 tons vs ours at 35 tons, almost twice as much (see comparison in the image included). Also, in August the Assessor claimed that inboard boats had appreciated 49% in 2021 according to JD Power. I found the exact document after the hearing therefore no chance to counter, as ‘Apelets’ are not given the opportunity of discovery of material used by the Assessor, thus no way to counter his claim in the August hearing. The JD Power report referred to inboard boats, such as wake and water ski boats, and the Assessor used them as comparables!  I showed pictures of those inboard boats, Malibu, Supra, Correctcrafts, etc. and mentioned how they could fit in your garage.

I was told by the board to speed it up again.

I presented Mr. Rosales’ “evidence” from August where he said the Buck Book (a company that puts out values of boats) valued the boat at between $2.06 million and $2.235 million, I asked how can that be? No Nordhavn 59 had sold for more than $1.85 Million, also we owned the only 2016 Nordhavn 59, which we paid $1.575 Million for.  The math does not work!

I was told by the board I only had 10 minutes left.

I was mad, I protested. I read the rest of my presentation as fast as I could, furiously and loudly into the microphone, at times yelling in frustration to emphasize a point.

I protested the penalty. In foresight, I had taken a screenshot of the Assessor’s Question and Answer page. It said that they get the information on who owns boats, not me having to tell them…” until just before the August hearing when they changed the web page to ‘if you own a boat you have to inform them’.

I finished in about 8 minutes. It was time for the Assessor to ask me questions and then to give his presentation. I guess Mr. Rosales did not want to lose another case because they brought in another person to give their presentation. He brings up the JD Power report again!!! I couldn’t believe it, was he napping just minutes ago? He dragged on and on, attempting to overwhelm with a large stack of paper.  When he was done, one Board Member asked if they could just eliminate the penalty immediately.  The Assessors said they were not legally able to eliminate the penalty and that the board will have to decide during their Advisement Period.

As the meeting was winding down the Assessor asked the Appeals Board if the lowering of the value to $1.5 million for my 2024 assessment included Sales Tax. The Chairman of the Board said that they need to have their lawyer review that. In my mind it is simple, the California Constitution states that Personal Property Tax is to be taxed at 1% and the assessed value is what a person could sell their property at on the lien date in an arm’s length transaction.

The Appeals Board had 4 months to render their decision for the August hearing which was Dec 13th. They now have an additional 2 months to give me the written decision which I paid an additional $250 for. I will keep you updated.

Happy Independence Day!

It has been quite a while since our last post but now we are back! We hope you had a wonderful long weekend and celebrated our beautiful country with your friends and family…how truly lucky and thankful we are.

As I mention being thankful, I am prompted to write of how happy I am to be in the excited phase of boat ownership, once again. This current phase of excitement is a little new for us, as we are now in the process of building our next boat from the plans up.

Her name is Independence II and is a 35’ Life Proof boat (www.lifeproofboat.com). If you followed the ‘Log’ in the past you may have noticed that we took a peak and test drive on one over a year ago (see ‘Log’ entry ‘Seattle, WA to Bremerton, WA’ May 14, 2024). Since then we have put our wallet where our mouth is and have been to the manufacturers twice to be part of the building process. There are many decisions to make at this point, most of them The Captains’. That being said, I feel a Captains Post coming your way soon. Until then, here are a couple of images to get you intersted.

SOLD!!!

Yes, it’s true…after six amazing years, we have sold the Independence. As some may say, a bittersweet day and that is very true. The wonderful news is that she is now owned by a lovely couple who live in the Seattle area and will thoroughly enjoy her with their kids and dog! They are very enthusiastic about cruising in this amazing location and we look forward to hearing about their adventures. Speaking of adventures, we have our sites on a new boat, which we will hopefully be sharing with you soon.

Nordhavn sales shot of the Independence taken last June.

Independence finally made it into the Nordhavn Calendar. Larry took this image of her in Princess Louisa Inlet last May.

Our 2024 Holiday Card…so many great memories from cruising the Pacific Northwest last Spring

Last photo on the boat….closed the deal. Bye - bye Independence. Thank you for being such a great boat and for all the amazing adventures!!!

The Final Stop...Anacortes, WA

Until writing the header for this post I did not entirely feel any major emotional twinges. My good friends will not be shocked, as I am not the most outwardly sentimental of persons. However, as I start writing one of my last Independence Chronicles, even I, am not beyond a moment of pause. It’s been 13,000 Nautical Miles and countless hours of amazing vistas, crazy open water hours that last forever and then are a thing of the past, ocean animals making friends, friends making memories, endless images that I will treasure for a lifetime. I truly never envisioned this time on a boat. This was all Larry. I will admit most has been a real adventure. Each day is not a repeat, unless you count the inevitable boat wash down at the end of the day. Yes, I will miss her. But, I think of our next adventure with a gleam of excitement. I feel the change and I am ready to go. I guess that’s the great thing about cruising, just like life, if you stay in one place too long the moss grows over you and it makes it hard to enjoy the new things in life. Here’s to our next adventure!

The Rock Fish Grill and Anacortes Brewery. Always time for a local brew…especially when they have been around for 30 years!

This mural of the old Skagit Saloon was created by Bill Mitchell, the director of the Anacortes Mural Project. The Skagit was originally housed in a wood building (1891) on Commercial Avenue that burned down. They continued to operate in this brick building rebuilt in 1902-1907, only to become a soda and candy shop due to prohibition. The true survivor of this story is Mr. Mitchell, who overcame a devastating car accident in his teens that left him a quadriplegic. He pivoted his life and went to art school and has created over 150 murals on the sides of Anacortes’ buildings. They are painted on three quarter inch plywood and mounted on the sides of correlating buildings. What an inspiration.

Another of Mr. Mitchell’s creations honoring the great Marine and ‘everything you didn’t know you need’ Store

This is no Fish Tale…evidently, they caught these monster halibuts of this size in 1890’s

This is Bill Mitchell’s mural of Larry Kelley, the “King of Smugglers”. He came to the Pacific Northwest and began an amazing career of opium smuggling in the 1860’s. He would transfer the opium from Victoria across the Strait of Juan de Fuca in a little fishing boat, by himself and off load it at various ports. The customs agents tried to catch him several time but he always neatly evaded them. Finally, customs agent Collector Ide heard that Kelly was was in the Upper Puget Sound area and he geared one of the custom launches into a fishing boat. He trolled the waters for many days and finally caught Kelly. He only had a 60 pounds on him but plead guilty and received two years in the State Penitentiary. Kelly got out early on good behavior but was quickly returned to the State Pen for smuggling again in 1910. (info from James McCurdy plaque)

The full mural of Larry Kelly the “King of Smugglers”

Above the Cap Sante Marina. The area was named by Anne Curtis Bowman, wife of railroad surveyor Amos Bowman. She said the hillsides reminded her of Cap Sante’ in Quebec, where she spent time as a child. They moved to the area in 1877 and Amos Boman named the town after his wife “Annie Curtis”. The town was founded in 1879 and soon after, the old growth forest was cut and the town was built. The Bowman’s started the Post Office, the Newspaper and had great hopes for the railroad making Anacortes into the ‘New York of the West Coast’. Amos Bowman passed away never realizing this dream but was content to see a booming industry of fishing and lumber.

My favorite old time clocks, this one off Commercial Avenue

The old McCracken House that is now a museum for Pacific Northwest art

So many lovely Victorian style homes that are so well cared for.

Behind the homes you find these rustic lanes where you can pull your car into your parking garage and back yard

This charming town not only has the sweet little libraries, but even better, the pooch treat hutch. This is a memorial to Clyde. He passed this January at 11 years old. He was loved by all and now is the host to biscuits for all dogs. Here’s to Clydie Bear!

Driftwood art made from the beach and displayed at the beach

Cap Sante Marina. Not a bad place to be for sale…the Independence is just two over from the big red boat on the first dock.

Photo shoot day! Jeff deploys his drone

We enjoy the views during the photo shoot

Mount Baker looks nice this evening

www.nordhavn.com

Check the link for the great shots and video from the photo shoot. Give Nordhavn a call when you’re ready to buy!

Comox, Silva Bay, Port Sidney and Victoria, B.C. Canada

We pick-up Dave & Renee in Comox. Dave grew up in Comox and his parents still live in the same house he grew-up in. We have a great dinner with Dave’s mom & dad and head out to Silva Bay the next morning (58NM). A pretty straight forward cruise with the exception of being warned (by the Canadian Navy) that we had entered a live ammunition exercise off of Nanaimo and we had best get out of the area as fast as we can. Entering Silva Bay was also pretty unusual, as you must cross the landing and takeoff zone for the local Beaver seaplane service. I could feel the mist from the floats as he roared over us after we cleared his ‘airfield’. On to Port Sidney the next day (35NM) via a current filed cut with on coming tug and tow traffic. We have a nice couple of days exploring the area and visiting with the relatives and then they were off, back to Comox via a rental car. We continue on to Victoria, B.C. (23NM) which, thankfully, when we pull in is pretty quiet. It is definitely one of the busier harbors for its size. Seaplanes, taxi’s, ferries, tourist boats and your general marina traffic - just for starters. We have a great visit with my family, that lives in Sooke, and some fun exploring the gorgeous city. It is amazing to think of this as our last port of call and the next stop for Independence is Anacortes, where she will be prepared for sale…

Sunset over the Comox Marina

All is still for morning departure from Comox to Silva Bay (58NM)

The tiny Silva Bay with many moored boats and one very busy de Havilland Beaver landing and taking off every hour to deliver people and packages through out the islands

Entrance Island Lighthouse

Larry guides us through the challenging cut of Porlier Pass between the Straits of Georgia and Trincomali Channel on our way to Port Sidney

Renee & Dave rejoin us in Comox and experience life on the Independence for a few days

Charming town of Port Sidney actually offers-up some fine weather

Hooks and peg-legs don’t stop this pirate from finding a good time in Port Sidney

We received this map on how to transit the Port of Victoria (after docking!), which has to be one of the busiest on the West Coast. There are countless seaplanes landing and taking off, a very large ferry that comes in and departs twice daily, along with multiple tour operators of small and large vessels, not to mention regular boat traffic like us….and don’t forget the teeny tiny taxi boats that buzz the marina like bees on warm, sunny days.

We are pretty lucky to arrive at a quiet time of day

The only event the day we pulled into the harbor was the arrival of the boats competing in the first leg of the Race to Alaska (r2ak). As stated at r2ak.com ‘America’s longest human and wind powered race’ from Port Townsend/Victoria, B.C. to Ketchikan, AK (self supported - no supply drops). Any boat without an engine can enter. The winner receives $10,000 and second place receives a set of steak knives…no joke. Notice how most of the boats deal with a no wind situation…pedal power!

The competitors boats for the r2ak…all shapes and sizes and configurations

The gorgeous harbor walkway around Victoria Harbour

The Empress Hotel has removed it’s ivy covered facade to preserve the 1908 structure. The Bengal Room has also been closed RIP (est. 1912). They have not decided what they are doing with the space at this time.

So now they have the new Q Bar…with ‘Warhol-Esque’ images of the Queen Victoria…did I mention it was a $60,000,000 renovation in 2017…the property is now owned by the Fairmont Group

Fisherman’s Wharf at Victoria Harbour

The Independence has a great slip at the marina

Right next to us is the busy Harbour Air Seaplane Base

A stunning day for walk around The Parliament Building.

My family Kyle, Aaron and Jennifer Rodd from Sooke, B.C. So happy we could spend time together. Thank you so much for the visit.

Wow, a million dollar view from our boat this evening!

The longhouse at Thunderbird Park with the Kwakwaka’wakw Heraldic Pole carved by Mungo Martin in 1952-53. His grandson, David Mungo Knox, restored the pole 2020

Knowledge Totem by Cicero August in front of the Parliament Building

The Parliament Building where 87 members meet to shape the future of the province. Queen Victoria looks out over the harbour

The r2ak racers getting ready for their big departure tomorrow

Victoria even has a charming little two block China Town

Fort Victoria, built in 1843, is now the Irish Times pub

Emily Carr’s (1871-1945) house. She was an artist and author, who challenged the Canadian landscape painters (all men). In 1927 she met the Group of Seven and forced her way into acceptance with her skill as a painter.

A great view from the Flying Otter Bar and Grill.

We got to tour the r2ak boats today and meet some of these brave sailors…

…off they go! Good luck on winning those steak knives!!!

Powell River, Canada to Grace Harbour, Toba Wilderness and Campbell River, Canada

Gumby departs the Independence for a long day of ferry rides and air planes back home to Bass Lake, California. Thanks Gumby for all your help! The remaining crew and captain continue on to Desolation Sound and Grace Harbour. A beautiful anchorage, where we spend two nights. The scenery and weather continue to improve as we head to the Toba Wilderness, with epic views of snow-capped mountains and plunging waterfalls. After two nights at Toba the drizzle and gray weather return and with news of yet another atmospheric river headed our way we move on to Campbell River (79NM) to ride out the storm in a marina…with wifi.

The first log-boom I’ve seen during our travels in these areas. Without roads you use the waterways. Now I know where all those ‘dead heads’ (loose large logs that can sink a big boat) are coming from.

Pretty shots of the Independence at anchor in Grace Harbour

More beauty shots

Time for a tender ride around the area…good thing we now have a Garmin chart reader for the tender, as this area is pretty confusing.

Double rainbow as the sun comes out

Millions of jellies at our anchorage

A cute little trawler anchors next to us in Grace Harbour

Thankful for this amazing weather on our way to Toba Wilderness

Just a little try at the fishing

Better luck in capturing photos of black bears feeding on shellfish during low tide

There are so many waterfalls they don’t all have names…just gorgeous ribbons of water falling off the rock cliffs

Independence on her own in the Toba Wilderness Marina

The base of the waterfall at the marina

The top of the waterfall above the marina

Local flora, mosses and berries

On the move…the waterways are the highways. This tug pulls trucks and fuel tanks and tons of other items - possibly for one of the local logging camps

The light house as we enter the channel to Campbell River

An amazing piece of artwork. This sailboat is all wood and just gorgeous.

Burial grounds on Tyee Spit, Campbell river

The mouth of the Campbell River. There are four native tribes of the Campbell River that lived primarily by fishing. After 1792 the European ships arrived and the late 1800’s brought logging into full swing. The log-booms were so thick that the mouth of the river you see here was practically blocked with great rafts of enouous logs making fishing in this area impossible. The log-booms existed until the 1990’s.

CorilAir Charters ready to go for a flight. In the 1970’s this seaplane base was reputed to be the busiest in the world. They transported supplies, equipment, parts and medivac services, as well as carrying crews in out of the hundreds of remote logging camps. In the 1980’s small logging operations gave way to large scale operations that no longer used the seaplanes, opting for high speed water taxi and crew boats, and the growing use of helicopters in the forestry industry contributed to a decline in the floatplane business. However, the tour and transportation business is still alive and well.

Driftwood art at Tyee Spit Dick Murphy Park

This carving at Tyee Spit Dick Murphy Park was done by three artists for the Shoreline Arts Society - Ernest Puglas, Jr. Henderson and Karver Everson. This amazing carving was just unveiled on May 31st of this year. It recognizes local nations’ connection to the land and co-operation. It depicts two figures holding up a sea serpent, telling of the ancient connections between families and nations on this part of the coast, and their resilience.

Miles of beautiful driftwood along the channel before Campbell River

Princess Louisa Inlet, Canada to Powell River, Canada

Gloomy and rainy today as we depart Princess Louisa Inlet. We rise early to catch the slack low tide through Malibu Rapids. Only one other boat is departing with us and as we make our sécurité call we can tell that the rapids pose no threat to us today. If you didn’t have advance knowledge, you would not believe there were rapids there. We back track our way down Jervis Inlet and reflect how lucky we were to get the awesome weather we had the other day. The weather continues to deteriorate with rain and wind making us content to pull into Powell River Marina and stay for a bit (65NM). The City of Powell River was established in 1912 as the first manufacturer of newsprint in Western Canada.

There be pirates in Powell River

Far down the beach you can still see the Independence in Westview Marina

Time to sample the local pubs and eateries

A fuzzy close up of this juvenile bald eagle in a windy spot, thus the ruffled feathers

One of the few spots left in the Westview Marina

We were treated to a twenty minute Sea Otter show as three of them cavorted around the dock across from us at the marina. Scent marking, preening their coats, eating crab and fish and chasing each other around - tumbling all over the docks. These animals truly have a sense of humor and know how to have fun.

The weather is still poor so a little bowling at the Persephone Bowling Alley seems like a good idea. Circa 1961, a five pin game played with tiny bowling balls…Larry won

Egmont, Canada to Princess Louisa Inlet, Canada

It is a cold, clear and beautiful morning, transiting up the Jervis Inlet. Our timing is crucial today to allow Larry to safely navigate the Independence through an area called ‘Malibu Rapids’. This is the only way into Princess Louisa Inlet (PLI). PLI is one of the absolute ‘must sees’ in life but in order to arrive safely you have to time the tides exactly right, waiting for a slack high or slack low tide. Larry opts for a slack low and as we cruise through the gorgeous glacier carved Jervis Inlet it becomes obvious that other boaters have made the same choice. We arrive at the entrance to Malibu Rapids a bit early and wait with eight other boats for the exiting water to be calmed by the incoming water. One 70 foot boat passes all the others and declares his intentions to enter the rapids first by giving a sécurité call (an alert advising other boaters, by VHF, that you are entering a blind area of one way traffic). The captain of an exiting sailboat radios back to the 70 footer letting him know that he may want to stand down for a bit as the rapids are still running at a 7 knot current. The anticipation and anxiety is growing on the Independence as we watch the exiting boats on AIS (Automatic Identification System) rocket through the rapids. Finally, the lead boat gives his sécurité and all the other boats claim a place behind the first. By the time we transit the rapids they are running at a 3 knot current, but it sure seems a lot faster than that as you feel the boat fighting the pull of the spiraling eddy pools and bounce over the turbulent water. As one person relayed over the VHF after she went through…”The current is still pretty spicy”. Spice or no spice, Larry did a fantastic job handling the Independence through yet another challenging experience (35NM).

To view Larry’s YouTube Video of our experience please click on the link below:

Malibu Rapids and Princess Louisa Inlet, May 22, 2024

An amazing day to ride the tide up Jervis Inlet toward Malibu Rapids and Princess Louisa Inlet

The ‘waiting area’ for running the Malibu Rapids, named for the Malibu Club of 1940 - the first of a planned series of resorts at Princess Louisa Inlet. PLI is named to commemorate the Princess Louise, the fourth daughter of Queen Victoria, whose husband was the Marquess of Lorne, Governor General of Canada.

Larry running Malibu Rapids at slack low tide with a three knot current

The reward for all the stress and worry is this glorious view of Chatterbox Falls…

Boats of 55 feet or larger are not allowed on the dock and the mooring balls were all taken so we spent our first day and night at MacDonald Island…

…so we took the tender to the dock to experience Chatterbox Falls and the rain forest trail

The trees wear an impressive coat of moss and there are streams everywhere

A panoramic of Chatterbox Falls, its’ spray and rapids

Gumby enjoyed the cocktail cruise

Thanks to Dave Garnett for introducing us to Vancouver’s’ Red Truck Road Trip Classic Lager…lovin’ the local brew

The following morning we move to mooring ball

Morning views and reflections

Larry took the drone up and was able to get this spectacular shot

As they say…what a difference a day makes. We exit Malibu Falls the next day at slack high tide and not a ripple to be seen. Also, not much of the view to be seen either due to the rain and fog.

Vancouver, Canada to Egmont, Canada

With cremember, Gumby Grant, back on board we move north through the Strait of Georgia’s wind and chop, using the radar until the afternoon. We continue through Agamemnon Channel and tie up in Egmont (56NM). The Bathgate ‘marina’ (at Egmont), is literally a piece of dock that you tie-up to while paying $180/night. They don’t even want you to get off your boat, possibly due to the hazards on the property. I thought for sure we were tying up in someone’s front yard. The log-boom protecting you is the one good thing (along with the sturdy cleats) but during tidal shifts, it looks as if some of the logs are about ready to float away and only held in place by the generous current. I will say the scenery is beautiful and it is nice to be securely tied overnight.

Big winds and chopping water in the Strait of Georgia

Entering Agamemnon Channel

Bathgate ‘Marina’ (photo courtesy of Larry McCullough)

The rain and mist provide a lovely sunset…

…and a gorgeous double rainbow