Norfolk, VA, Cape Charles, VA, Tangier Island, VA, Solomons Island, MD and St. Michaels, MD

Norfolk, VA is a perfect town to walk around. We docked the boat at a marina right in the heart of the cities waterfront, which has an impressive walking path that follows the perimeter of The Elizabeth River. We toured the oldest street in town and looked at the old homes of Freemason Street. We then toured the not so oldest pubs of Granby street. The following day brought us to the Chesapeake River and after four hours of easy cruising we arrived at Cape Charles, VA (32NM). This town is definitely on my favorites list. Larry asked a stranger about her golf cart and where to rent one. The next thing we know we are in the back of her Club Car racing off to the rental shop. Friendly people, beautiful beaches, a great brew pub and wonderful seafood…who can ask for more? But, away we go, off to Tangier Island. This island is on the National Register of Historic Places so we couldn’t pass by with out giving it a visit. We make pretty good time through the crab pot feilds…thousands of crab pots! After about four hours we tie-up and tour the little island (37NM). Our only major miscalculation on this trip was not realizing this island is ‘dry’. Not a pub in site. So back to the boat we go. A nice barbeque salmon dinner and contraband cocktails and we are happier than clams. Off the next day to Solomons Island (39NM) where we put the tender in for a little ‘area familiarization’. We find a few entertaining establishments and then head back to the boat for dinner as another day of travel brings us to St. Michaels (45NM). We find a nice spot to anchor for the evening and while we still have daylight we pop the tender over and head to town. St. Michaels has a charming waterfront with a rich maritime and fishing/crabbing history . We dock the dingy and walk around town then head back to the Independence. We have a wonderful sunset and the winds are light when we go to sleep but the winds really kicked up after dark. I am just not that comfortable with the exposed feeling of overnight anchoring in strong winds. The anchor alarm goes off often as we swing but the anchor hold was good and in hind site there was no reason to have worried. That being said, I am thankful our next stop is in a marina at Annapolis, MD…for two days!

Greetings from Norfolk!

Look who joined us on the Independence…Keith Hennessey! In port at the Norfolk marina right in the heart of the city.

Gorgeous old chuches.

An Abbey turned into a bar and restaurant

Freemason Street. The cities oldest surviving cobblestone street dating back to the early 18th century. Like Savannah they used the stones that were originally used as ballast in ships.

Leaving Norfolk for Cape Charles. War ship 58 being moved by my favorite tugs. Larry had to hail the War ship 58 to get permission from their captain to pass.

There were at least four of these large commercial fishing vessels working as we were attempting to enter the channel for Cape Charles.

Love this sign spotted in ‘Shanty’s’ restaurant and bar. Great seafood here, by the way…

Sweet Laura (a local) giving us a lift to the local golf cart rental.

Beautiful white sand beaches of Cape Charles

Keith and Larry

Cape Charles Brewing Co.

The brewery beer garden

The path to the brewery that you take if you are in a golf cart

The boys at ‘Kelly’s’ pub

The welcome sign at Tangiers Island

Old charming homes

The main industry in Tangier is crabbing. Nice collection of crab trap markers…you would not believe how hard it is to see these floats when they are in the water. We have gone by thousands in the Chesapeake Bay.

The island has a VERY high water table so people build platforms to protect their golf carts. Golf carts are the main means of transportation.

Love the house and especially the tighty-whities hanging on the laundry line in the neighbors yard to the left.

Tangier Island is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

The island is a ‘dry island’ no alcohol is served anywhere. So, we had cocktails and dinner on the boat.

Boys on the boat

Taking the tender to the legendary ‘Tiki Bar’ of Solomons Island.

A little beer, a little live music and a little bean-bag toss

Larry makes friends where ever he goes

Sitting pretty in the anchorage outside St. Michaels

Pretty old boats in the harbor

They still make ship masts here

The walk to town

Spring flowers and old homes…

…and old stone churches

In front of one of the channels off the little harbor of St. MIchaels. Photo by Keith Hennessey

Famous for their blue crab

Love these informational place mats

Spring dogwood flowers

Old carriage house

The ‘Selena’. You can hire her crew to take you on a sunset cruise

Gorgeous sunset at St. Michaels

The Captain's Post...

Post by Larry McCullough

It is said “The journey of a thousand miles begins with one step”, or in our case the single rotation of the screw (that’s nautical talk for propeller for you land lovers). We accomplished that first step with the completion of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway (AIW or often referred to as the ICW).

The AIW starts in Norfolk Va, Mile Marker 0, and ends in Key West FL. 1243. We went as far south as Marathon FL at Mile Marker 1193 and finished in Norfolk last Wednesday May 15th.

As Jamie has posted, I have thought about this trip for at least 30 years and the trip has grown from just doing the AIW to continuing up the Hudson River to the Erie Canal, the Great Lakes, the Mississippi River, Ohio River, and eventually to the Gulf at Mobile Bay.

But that is just one part of the trip of hopefully bringing the boat back on it’s own bottom (too big for a truck, shipping is only other option) via the Panama Canal.

Yes, the trip has to be looked at in single steps (segments) or it is far to daunting.

Out on the last leg of the ICW at 6:00AM to catch a bridge opening. Really cold but gorgeous.

Waiting for the North Landing bridge with all our ICW friends. Only one opening left and then it is closed for maintenance for 8 hours.

Only opening one side.

Looking back over the stern.

You think things might calm down but they do not. This barge was huge and filling most of the narrow channel.

Yes, another barge and please notice the hazards on each side. Tree trunks ready to puncture your hull. No room for error.

A sweet railroad bridge. They remain open unless a train is coming along.

Waiting in line for the lock.

We made the lock entrance. This cruise ship had precedence over all the pleasure craft so we were happy to squeak in.

Looking back over the stern as the gates on the lock close.

As we exit the lock there again is not much room for error.

The first official ICW sign I have seen and we have traveled over 1,000 miles on it as of today!

I had to include this different ‘elevator bridge’. This was the first we had been under and we are almost to Norfolk, VA.

Norfolk is all about ships and ship building and maintenance.

Tied up and so happy to be at MILE 0 at Norfolk, VA! Photo courtesy of Larry McCullough

My model may not look excited…but truly he is…

THE ICW from Marathon, FL (MILE 1193) & The Bluffs (MILE 1008) to Norfolk, VA (MILE 0). The first chapter is behind us…so many more to come…

Belhaven, NC to Coinjock, NC

We left Beaufort, NC and continued north up the ICW, A nice slow journey up to Belhaven, NC with some cloud cover that led to some rain and some wind. We anchored out in a nice protected area and after the wind let up it was a very peaceful overnight anchorage (58NM). The next morning we awoke to a silent army of tiny winged creatures (may flies?) carpeting the boat. Our friends warned us this might happen and they were spot on. We decided not to disturb the peaceful, non-stinging/biting flies, thinking if we pulled anchor and got some air flowing around the boat they might take flight…well, think again. The bugs held fast for a free ride to Coinjock, NC (73NM) and beyond. I am told that the name Coinjock is native american for Mulberry. Evidently, this is a requisite stop on ‘The Loop’ where you (Larry) advance order your prime rib (I had the soft shell blue crab just caught hours earlier). You are more than ready to tie-up by the time you reach Coinjock but the better part of this stop is the camaraderie with the fellow boaters. You have just spent the whole day traveling along the same strip of water with these boats, listening to their captains on the VHF radio as some take the ‘Hare’ approach leap-frogging by the slower ‘Tortoise’ boats. Now you get to meet their owners and share your stories and advice. We learn a crucial bit of information regarding our next day of travel. The North Landing swing bridge is closing for maintenance tomorrow and we have to be on the ICW no later than 6:00AM to get three hours up the river to ensure we catch an opening. If we don’t get through it is an eight hour delay…that would not be good as after that we have to catch another another swing bridge, a bascule bridge and go through a lock before we reach Norfolk, VA.

I am falling in love with tugs…they are the undersung heros of our waterways. These are particularly pretty.

Another lovely passage along the way to Belhaven, NC

There is an eagle way up there….

Belhaven anchorage sunset.

Belhaven bugs…there is no way any picture I took could give justice to the amount of critters on our boat that morning.

Just love this little trawler…

Entering a swing bridge ahead of the pack…

Looking back over the stern toward the rest of the pack.

Nice post-rain light at Coinjock dock. They pack us in like sardines.

My name is Larry…your prime rib awaits you this way…

She is dirty and covered with bugs but looks so pretty from here

We already ate the soft shell blue crab. I am on to my crab cake and scallops…Larry has his prime rib…can you image eating all this?!? It fed us for another day…

Nice evening reflections at the Coinjock dock

The Other Beaufort...Beaufort, NC

I am fairly certain that I am not the only ‘Beaufort-ly Challenged’ individual. The names of these cities in each state are spelled the same but pronounced differently. Which, from an outsiders point of view may not be a big deal but to the denizens of these towns it certainly is. We have been corrected (ever-so-kindly) more than once on the pronunciations and this is the tutorial in a nutshell (poached from a Google site} “The Beaufort of South Carolina is pronounced "BYOO-fert" (as in "beautiful"). The Beaufort of coastal North Carolina is "BOH-fert" (as in "Beauregard"), which is also the correct pronunciation of the Duke of Beaufort's name…” O.K. we will stop there. So, we are in Beaufort, NC and it was a big day on the ICW to get here, eight hours and roughly 70NM. Some very shallow areas especially at each inlet from the ocean where shoaling is especially prevalent. We make our way into the Beaufort Docks Marina and happily accept their ‘Wooden Nickle' drink tokens. We exchange them for a couple of Yuengling beers at the ‘Dive Bar'. We plan to be here for two days but make it three due to weather. Not a bad place to spend some time as this city is beautiful, friendly and welcoming. Great food, friendly bars, beautiful homes and scenery. A great Nautical Museum and National Seashore complete with their own wild horses of Shackelford’s Island. Also, did I mention that Congrio joined the party in Beaufort due to weather on the Outer Banks?!? So great to see you guys!

Leaving Wrightsville Beach bright and early to catch the first openings of this swing bridge on our way to Beaufort, NC

Amazed by the engineering

The homes in Beaufort, NC date back to the mid 1700’s

Split lots are common and most have these charming gates

Old, charming homes on Front Street

Some are very grand

Some are very humble, but just as lovely

Such a pleasant change to see the wild flower front yard instead of the manicured lawns and landscaping

Don’t donate your old cooler…make it into a bird’s house!

The Captain’s Liquor Chest, courtesy of the Nautical Museum

Across the river from Beaufort is Shackleford Island where the Spanish left their horses and the descendants now run free

A wild Shackleford horse

Patty & Eric’s Congrio came to the party at Beaufort Docks Marina

Georgetown, SC, Myrtle Beach, SC, Wrightsville Beach, NC

We depart Charleston, SC and on our way find our ‘Congrio’ friends anchored in the bay. We shout our good mornings and head onward to the shipping channel leading out to the ocean. Seventy-one NM later we arrive at Georgetown, SC. It was a little choppy in places but a great passage as this boat is built to finesse the kind of waves we were taking. Georgetown is a sweet southern town that is quiet on a Tuesday late afternoon. We wander about and see the historical homes and the charming boardwalk and then head back to the Independence as tomorrow brings another travel day. The trip to Myrtle Beach on the ICW is pretty short (49NM) and we decide to use the next two days to detail the boat which is in need of a deep cleaning and wax after all her open water time. Fueled-up and looking sharp we head out on the ICW for Wrightsville Beach, NC (51NM). At Wrightsville we catch a ride-share to Wilmington and walk their boardwalk along the Cape Fear river. A short but sweet visit as we as we are headed to Beaufort, NC tomorrow.

We found Eric & Patty on Congrio in the Charleston Bay!

Charming tree lined streets in Georgetown, SC

The boardwalk in Georgetown is ours

Haven’t seen one yet…but I sure won’t be feeding one

Wow, this research vessel makes me wish I went to ‘Coastal Carolina University’

Paper and steel mills have come back to the area just recently

A beautiful day on the ICW, on our way to Myrtle Beach, SC

Our first swing bridge

Kinda’ cool

This is a large fishing trawler was washed ashore last year by hurricane Florence. We have seen so many nice looking boats, vessels, docks and homes that were devastated by this event.

Loved this home on the ICW that used their old boat stern as a boat house and had a water slide to boot!

All sorts of traffic on the ICW. This is a barge hauling pipes pushed by a tug and two other pusher/puller tugs. Quite the hazard to pass.

More traffic. This time we make room for the ‘Kirby’ in the shipping channel

Sweet southern horse trolley rides in Wilmington NC…look at those pineapples!

The boardwalk in Wilmington , NC along the the Cape Fear River

We don’t eat much while in transit so this food tasted soooo good. The Pilot House on the Cape Fear River is the place to go for truffle fries and brisket sliders.

We stayed in a marina in Wrightsville Beach and took a ride-share to Wilmington….so glad we did.

Amazing trees and other plants that grow in the salt/brackish waters

Religious art, evidently, is in the eye/hand of the beer-holder

They fear no wine or beer because it is so hard to find a liquor store in the south!

Charleston, SC

Of course we are doing what all all the ‘Looper’s’ guides say not to do…try and keep a schedule. We move almost every day to make sure we will make it to a wedding in Virginia on the 25th. Our progress is very steady, as we have completed around 800 NM so far. Slow and steady wins the race, although we have used the power of our twin 715 HP Cummins engines to catch more than one bridge opening. On the flip-side, we were passed by a 50 foot boat the other day that must have been in quite the hurry as they missed the channel markers and ran aground about a half mile ahead of us (at the top of the high tide!). So with our tortoise pace in mind you think I would remember every little turn and shoal but no, by the end of the day when you finally tie-up you can hardly remember where you started that morning. It's a good thing Larry is keeping his ship’s log so I can write these posts. The latest entry, departing Beaufort, SC for Charleston, SC (54NM) brought us through some REALLY low water but Larry has squeaked us through and we are in Charleston for three whole days! I am thrilled. We go to the local medical school fitness center, we ride bikes all over this amazingly historical city, we do laundry and visit the local yacht club. Charleston is a gorgeous city just over-flowing with that fabled southern hospitality…it is NOT lip service…these people are nice! In addition, it is a great place to watch the Kentucky Derby.

A perfect city to bike around. Battery park

Monuments in Battery Park

So many gorgeous homes

Waterfront park. The pineapple is the symbol of hospitality.

Beautiful churches everywhere.

The most quintessential of resting places.

The original jail of Charleston was in use from 1802 until 1939. Now it is to be used for office space…

The amount of wrought iron displayed around your home was in direct proportion to your wealth and therefore status.

The oldest bar in Charleston dating back to 1803. The term ‘Blind Tiger’ was code for a ‘speak softly shop’ or a smugglers house during prohibition.

Cutty’s bar had this sign…loved it…I ordered a Tecate…

The Charleston Yacht Club. Dredging is not in their budget but they sure are welcoming at he bar.

The CYC loves burgees

SFYC burgee made the cut!

A fine place to watch the Kentucky Derby…thoroughbred county indeed!

The sunset view from the Independence at the Charleston City Marina

No Bridge to Beaufort, SC

We said goodbye to our friends Joan & Casey on the first of May as they return south to complete their adventures in New Orleans. Now it’s just Larry and myself to get the boat on up the river. The plan for the following day is to head up the ICW to Beaufort, SC, where we will spend a day and then proceed to Charleston, SC. On the second of May we leave the Savannah Yacht Club right on time at 6:00AM to catch the tide and make it to a Bascule Bridge (one that opens in the middle) that begins opening at 7:00AM. We hail the bridge tender and let him know that we are a 25 foot tall vessel and require an opening for his 26 foot clearance bridge. Surprisingly, we are told that his bridge is not functioning and maintenance is due ‘sometime this morning’. We can either wait or ‘try to slip on under’. Well, to my surprise Larry decides to go for it. I am shocked but dumbfoundedly agree to stand at the rear of the fly-bridge and shout if it looks like the radar arch, or any of it’s accessories, will smack the under-carriage of the bridge (evidently, the tide against us is moving so swiftly that Larry says he has the ability to reverse in time). I will just say that there was not a lot of room left between us and the wheels of the cars going over that bridge…who needs coffee to wake-up when you have Larry?!? So, at this point I would love to say that the rest of the morning brought picturesque views of the Bonaventure cemetery followed by low-county marsh filled beauty with epic dolphin-swimming misty sunrises…and yes it did…and we also made it to Beaufort, SC (6 hours/40NM).

That shadow above the radar arch is a car…yes we had a foot of clearance…Image courtesy of Larry McCullough

Another telling angle…Image courtesy of Larry McCullough

A gorgeous low county sunrise

Yes, mist and sunrise over the marsh is really magical

The Bonaventure Cemetery for those of you who have read ‘Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil’ by John Berendt

Dolphins at our bow. Image courtesy of Larry McCullough

The Downtown Marina at Beaufort is quite lovely

‘The Castle’. ca. 1860. The live oak is over 300 years old.

‘Petit Point’ ca. 1850 . Oozing with charm…

Twin homes…plain and fancy…

Savannah, GA

Larry, Joan & Casey at the Savannah Yacht Club dock entrance

As it is said…what a difference a day makes…the passage from Cumberland Island to Savannah was so pleasant with flat seas and just a little breeze that I had to remind myself we were out on the open ocean. The trip took about six hours (90NM) and brought us to the Savannah Yacht Club, which enjoys reciprocity with our San Francisco Yacht Club. We were a ways from downtown Savannah so the following day we hired a ride share and walked around the most historical city in the United States. The fact that General Sherman did not burn Savannah is truly a miracle as each city that fell to the Union Army was normally burned as the soldiers led their ‘March to the Sea’. We have been told that Sherman did not burn the city because he wanted to present the city as a Christmas gift to President Lincoln along with 150 heavy guns, plenty of ammunition and 25,000 bales of cotton (Savannah and London were the two cities, at this time, that set the price for cotton at their respective Cotton Exchanges). We toured many of the cities highlights including the ‘Midnight in the Garden of Good & Evil’ sights by the Hop-on-Hop-off method (thanks Joan & Casey). This works quite well if you get hungry and need to stop for a ‘blue crab’ crab cake or of course - thirsty and need a beer! After all the hopping was done we were treated to an incredible dinner at ‘HUSK’ by our sweet friends the Kelly’s. It was fantastic food from local fisherman and farms served by truly engaging people who really appear to love where they work. A night-cap at the posh bar upstairs capped a great day and night in Savannah.

The Savannah Yacht Club club house

Views from our spot at the SYC

Yes, we play tourist. Thanks Casey & Joan for the fun ‘Hop-Tour’

The red door in the south signifies that you have paid off your mortgage and own your home

Irish pride in the south

The Chatham Artillery’s ‘Washington Guns’

A peek-a-boo of a paddle wheeler

Just a sweet Savannah walk-way

Bay Street (these buildings are elevated above River Street)

The Cotton Exchange and the first Freemasons’ Hall

Can’t get enough of the old Cotton Exchange…love this building

Johnny Mercers’ Oscar awards…yes he wrote the Lyrics for Moon River which is a real river we passed on the ICW the next day heading north toward Beaufort, SC

Evidently, it is also a brewery….

Churchill’s was a very nice place to have a cold one.

Independent Presbyterian Church

The restaurant HUSK refurbished this beautiful home after it was burned and left for ruin

Sweet and fresh oysters from local waters

A night-cap at HUSK

Cumberland Island, GA

The exit from St. Augustine, FL was a little more uncomfortable than I had hoped for, as the sun was directly in our eyes and locating the channel markers was quite difficult. In addition, the depths and shoaling were a bit challenging as well but Larry did a great job getting us through and out to the ocean. The adventure did not stop there, as the wind chop was about five feet and very close together which made for a brutal nine hours up to the St. Mary’s Inlet (62NM). A bright spot was a visit we had from a large pod of dolphins that played on the bow waves for a little while (video on my Instagram page; jamiewilliams2000). Pulling into the quiet little anchorage next to Cumberland Island was a treat as we were again met with many visiting dolphins playing around the boat. The following morning we took the tender to Cumberland Island National Seashore and rented bikes intending to do a little ride of eight to ten miles but somehow that turned into a 30 mile ride (much in loose sand). Darn those park service map mileage gauges! Luckily we brought food and water as very little of both is available on the island. What is available are idyllic trails lined with live oaks dangling their Spanish moss (which is neither Spanish nor a moss but an epiphyte), feral horses that were evidently abandoned by Spanish settlers more than 500 years ago. Old mansions and homes that date back to the 1700’s - 1880’s and an old church from the 1890’s that sits on land that had been purchased by a small group of African American freedmen. We only had one day to explore this exceptional place so we took advantage of every moment to see and visit each sight. Our bikes were horrible and one broke down prompting Larry to search high and low to find tools to fix it (thank you Carol), but that did not stop us from having an epic day with our intrepid friends Joan and Casey Kelly. After the last sight was seen we piled back into the tender dirty, thirsty, tired and hungry but really happy we had seen this special place.

Larry, Casey, Joan on their bikes heading out for a little bike ride…

The feral horses of Cumberland Island. For more go to www.wheretraveler.com

Palm Orchard Mansion built by the Carnegie family in 1898

The First African Baptist Church originally built in 1893 and rebuilt in 1937 at the north end of the island

JFK junior and Carolyn Bessette where married here in 1996

Thirty miles later we make it to the South end to visit Dungeness, the home of Thomas & Lucy Carnegie originally built in 1884 on land that General Nathaniel Greene had previously owned

Revolutionary War hero General Nathaniel Greene purchased land on Cumberland Island. He never lived to see the original Dungeness home his wife Catherine built in 1792 - 1803. It still stands in the shadows of the rubble of the second Dungeness.

The Dungeness ruins. The mansion was abandoned by the Carnegie family in 1925 and destroyed by fire in 1959.

Off to Savannah, GA

Cape Canaveral, New Smyrna Beach, Palm Coast & St. Augustine, FL

Saturday our good friends Joan and Casey Kelly from Sacramento joined us on the Independence. On Easter Sunday we waived goodbye to our dock neighbors at The Bluffs Marina (and again when leaving the Inlet - thanks Rob, Sharron & Bailey!) and had a great passage out of the Jupiter Inlet to the ocean. The weather was perfect for the trip up to Cape Canaveral. Very little wind or waves AND our autopilot worked!!! I even did a helm’s watch while Larry took a nap. We had the company of many dolphins, Green turtles and even a massive Leatherback turtle that was over 6 feet long. After eleven hours we entered Cape Canaveral (99 Nautical Miles = NM) and enjoyed some great rock shrimp at a local restaurant. The following day brought us to our first lock as we left Cape Canaveral for the Barge Canal and our first day on the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW). Some very shallow water was traversed, which we knew we would occur on this adventure…just not before we even got to the ICW. A pleasant eight hours (44NM) brought us to New Smyrna Beach where we spent the night at the Municipal Pier (legally!). We walked around the town and enjoyed the sweet atmosphere of old southern homes with lichen-draped oak trees and of course, a beer or two. Tuesday was a short day to Palm Coast Marina (35NM) and even shorter the next day to St. Augustine (20NM). Many dolphins, porpoises, manatees and even pink flamingos were seen along the route. St. Augustine is the oldest city in the United States and a wonderful walking town. We spent a day at the light house and a day at Castillo de San Marcos followed by the Cathedral (where we lit a candle for our safe passage) and could easily spend many more here but away we go tomorrow to Cumberland Isle.

Great friends at The Bluffs (R to L) Sharron, Patty, Rob, Eric, Larry and Bailey on board Congrio

Exiting the Jupiter Inlet to the Atlantic Ocean

Our first lock at Cape Canaveral heading to the ICW

The Barge Canal

Someones weekend spot along the canal

Our first view of the ICW

Tied-up for the evening at New Smyrna Beach Municipal Pier

Canal Street, New Smyrna Beach, FL

Building new bridges in Daytona, FL

These people have fun! One of many amazing houses along the ICW.

The Nao Santa Maria ( Spanish galleon) at St. Augustine Municipal Marina

A little history on the ICW

The St. Augustine Light House

My models before the hike up to the top of the light.

Looking down the light house stairs.

The Light House Keepers house as seen from the top.

At the top again…

A great story if you have time.

A night shot of Independence in the St, Augustine Municipal Marina.

The Castillo de San Marcos completed in 1695

And So It Begins...

I must admit, I am a bit overwhelmed with the idea of being on a boat for approximately nine months. Everything I have read about the The Great Loop tells me not to be worried, there is so much to see, so much to do…but hey, I think it is a natural reaction for most people to have. That being said, Larry is nose to the grindstone selling cars, renting out the house, planning our route, what marinas and anchorages we may stay at, possible passengers and the most tenuous thing…the schedule. Our departure date is set for April 21st (Happy Easter!), however this depends on our friends at Nordhavn and the completion of the auto pilot repair and a few other issues with the boat. We will know better after our arrival in Jupiter on the 16th of April. We have been away from The Independence for more than two and half months. It feels strange to not have been on board and in reflection I take that as a good sign. At this point in this post I am certain some readers are wondering what The Great Loop is and where it goes. I am not sure if this is correct ‘log’ etiquette but I have posted a couple pages that I scanned from a May/June 2018 issue of the magazine Passage Maker. This section called ‘Shop Talk’ by Brian K. Lind includes a great interview with Kim Russo, Executive Director of the Americas Great Loop Cruising Association (AGLCA) as she fields the most common questions about ‘The Loop’…better her than myself!

Page One of Two courtesy Passage Maker magazine

Page Two of Two courtesy Passage Maker magazine

We are hoping to start this loop on Sunday the 21st of April, 2019. Our starting location is 50 miles South of Ft. Pierce, #1 on this map. As we move through the Great Lakes we will take the red portion of the loop. Yes, this will take awhile,,,so much to see & do! Map courtesy of ‘The Looper’s Companion Guide’, by Captain John.

Jupiter

Many people who did not know where Jupiter, Florida was last month certainly know where it is now thanks to the owner of the New England Patriots football team. I am here to redirect your attention from Jupiters’ dark underbelly to the highest and brightest of sites in Jupiter…the Jupiter Lighthouse and the nearby Loggerhead Marine Life Center in Juno Beach. If you happen to be in town please stop by these local treasures. The entry fees are minimal/free (although they do appreciate donations). Also, noted below are a few drinking establishments, because you know we get thirsty!

Jupiter Lighthouse designed by George Meade and first used in 1860 www.jupiterlighthouse.org

The view from the base of the lighthouse

A little history courtesy of the visitor center

The First Order Rotating Fresnel lens

Brant and Mary Hoffmann with Larry at the top

The fabulous view at the top of Jupiter Inlet and surrounds

www.marinelife.org

Calaveras Cantina has an amazing selection of fairly priced tequilas, a great happy hour & fabulous decor…plus, you can take your boat/tender to the restaurant! www.calaverascantinas.com

Tequesta Brew Co. offers a great selection of handcrafted ales, my favorite is Der Chancellor www.tequestabrewing.com

From the outside you would never guess there is this cool bar inside

Close to the Jupiter Lighthouse is Guanabanas with tons of outdoor seating and music too. Larry, Kappy and Mark Reed and myself. www.guanabanas.com

Guanabanas boat parking with our tender in the foreground

SFYC Turns 150

Our San Francisco Yacht Club turned 150 this year. There was a big bash at the club but before that took place there were some creative projects related to this anniversary. A little know fact is that The Independence offers a full catalogue of classes & activities while ship-board. Led by instructor Kappy Reed, you too can enroll in our ‘Burgee Design Workshop’ and make a new burgee for your yacht club!

San Francisco Yacht Club Burgee

Burgee Design Workshop underway

Research and Education

Wow, Kappy is amazing…considering this is made from items found ship-board including Kappy’s JetBlue sleep mask!

The ‘Burgee Brigade’ on the deck of The Independence in front of the Miami skyline, Biscayne Bay, FL. Larry holds the SFYC burgee, Kappy - the 150 Anniversary Book, Mark - our 150 year anniversary burgee & Jamie - the 120 year anniversary burgee

The 150 year anniversary celebration at the club was fabulous, especially the seafood buffet

We like seafood buffets…can you tell?!?

Keys!!! Part Two

Marathon Marina was a dream…great weather, fellow Nordhavn owners to bond with (so great to meet you Jenny and Ted from Southern Star!), a gym, a pool, laundry, great food and fun times. We will definitely be going back. Kappy and Mark Reed joined us at Marathon Marina for the passage north back to Jupiter. After some discussion and research of the upcoming weather we decided to head straight back to Biscayne Bay the following day. We did not anchor out in front of Key Largo on the way north as the winds were coming from a bad direction and it would have been a choppy, noisy night. The trip to Biscayne took about nine hours and was pretty bouncy for the first half as we got into the Gulf Stream to pick up a knot or two. We then came back into Hawk Channel after the majority of the crab/lobster pots were gone and we were tired of being slammed around by the wind and deep chop. It was a beautiful night in front of Miami…their skyline is gorgeous. The next day we played tourist on Key Biscayne, taking the tender to No Name Harbor and walking to the lighthouse and beaches. We then checked out the Yacht Club and town and headed back to The Independence for dinner. Another long day from Miami to Jupiter and happy to get back into the Bluffs Marina. We can not thank Kappy and Mark enough for their great crew skills, setting up a fabulous bar in the boat and all the wonderful dinners and company. We hope you will join us again soon!

Sunset view from our slip at Marathon Marina, FL

Only wishing we had more time to enjoy this pretty pool at Marathon Marina

Ted and Jenny of Southern Star

Nordhavn 47 Southern Star

Awesome crew - Kappy and Mark Reed

Independence anchored out in Biscayne Bay as we take the tender to No Name Harbor, Biscayne Key

No Name Harbor, Key Biscayne, FL

Cape Florida Lighthouse

Seafood Paella, Plantains and grilled Snapper at the No Name Harbor Cafe

Great photo of the Independence with Miami in the background…Photo by Kappy Reed

Early morning views of the Miami skyline while anchored in Biscayne Bay after the rain

Making our way through the Miami shipping channel

A little traffic in the channel

Home sweet home

Toys

Enough pondering, we pulled the plug and purchased a Brownie Third Lung dive system. After a quick assembly, we used the new toy at Sombrero Reef Reserve off of Marathon Key. It was a beautiful day so we loaded the rig into the tender and scooted out 20 minutes to the reef. The water was pretty flat, pretty warm, pretty clear and just plain pretty! Loads of fan corals and more schools of fish than I have seen in years (I think they are used to being fed…they had that expectant look about them). The rig was amazingly easy to use. Just make sure your battery is charged and it will power the compressor for three hours of diving for two divers at a time, to a depth of 65 feet. After a bit of getting used to this new, ‘lighter’ feeling of diving (no tank, no B.C., no wet suit and thus, very little weight needed) it was really quite remarkable. The battery and compressor system sit in an inner tube, which bobs about at the surface as it follows you as you swim. Too bad I didn’t have a GoPro to show you the electric blue Parrot Fish or the huge Barracuda hanging out by our buoy line…well, that’s on order next!

Also, included in the toy list…Bluetooth headsets, an exercise bike and a BBQ…Santa may have been late, but his bag was full!!!

Research at the Brownie Dealership

Christmas in January

The 24V Lithium Battery

The single head direct drive oil-less compressor and fully enclosed brushed DC Motor in their storage pan (cover off)

Mesh gear bag for stowing the float tube, hoses & regulators, fittings, and SS3 gallon accumulator tank

The rig does take up the whole front end of the tender as we head out to Sombrero Reef marine reserve

Ready, set, dive!

A break between dives...

Love these headsets by SENA, wouldn't consider docking the boat without them

No trails, no gym - no excuses now that we have 'Pro-Form 405 SPX' from Costco

Finally got the BBQ! The Magma Catalina II Infrared gas grill

Keys!!!

So far so good. Shake down cruise 2.0 is going well but not with out a few wrinkles. We are now on day eleven of a nineteen day cruise, currently in Marathon Key, Florida. We left The Bluffs Marina in Jupiter, Florida heading for Ft. Lauderdale with our good friends Mary and Brant. A bit of deja vu, as our auto pilot failed just as it had done on our way to the Bahamas. After eight hours of seven foot swells we arrived in Ft. Lauderdale, at least we had the wind at our stern and following seas. We lost the sunny weather the next day but were compensated with the addition of Blake and Brittany to the Independence crew. We took advantage of our extra time in port to cruise the Intracoastal Waterway on a friends 86 foot boat ‘Tortuga’, hit the gym and scootered around town to check out the local watering holes and restaurants. Sadly, Mary and Brant left us at this time to return to Lake Tahoe, California and we continued on south to Miami. We anchored in Biscayne Bay that night with amazing views of the Miami skyline in front of us. The next day we stopped at Rodriquez Key where we anchored out again and even put the tender in to check out a local bar. We scrapped our dive the next day due to poor conditions and headed south to Marathon Key, where we are now. Blake and Brittany disembarked yesterday to continue their travels in Nashville, Tennessee and now we are two again. Kappy and Mark are due in on Monday and until then we are busy with scrubbing the hull, replacing zincs, re-provisioning, updating the log, and hopefully checking out a couple of good watering holes!

Larry at the helm entering the busy channel in Ft. Lauderdale

Crew shirts were given out today!

Brittany, Blake, Brant and Mary…shake down 2.0 crew re-hydrating at a Ft. Lauderdale pub

Thank you Suzanne for a great cruise along the Ft. Lauderdale Intracoastal on The Tortuga

Ft. Lauderdale scooter rental

Seven foot swells look good on this guy…at least we had the auto-pilot that day on our way to Miami

Miami city front

Dolphins welcomed us into the Miami harbor

Miami sky line in the distance as we enter Biscayne Bay

Biscayne Bay crew, Blake, Brittany and Larry

Almost sunset at our anchorage in Biscayne Bay

The Independence at anchor at Rodriguez Key

Sunset aboard the Independence with Blake and Brittany in Marathon Key

Channel markers for the entrance to Marathon Key

Message in a Bottle

While at Green Turtle Cay we took the golf cart exploring and stopped at a beautiful beach just minutes from the marina. As Larry walked toward the water something caught his eye. In amongst the sea weed, drift wood and general flotsam and jetsam, he spied an old wine bottle. Oddly enough, the bottle was sealed and appeared to contain something other than wine. On closer inspection the bottle held a bit of money, a hand woven friendship bracelet and a very faded note. Over the next day or so our friend Chris sat down with that faded note and patiently restored the text…

‘Ciao, Bon Jour, Ola, Hola, Hello. I hope this message in a bottle finds you in good spirits and good health. We, the four member crew of the sailboat ‘Quiet’, are curious where the wind and waves will carry this message. So if you some how find it let us know. We are in Grenada right now in the Caribbean Sea and will be leaving to sail across the Atlantic Ocean soon. If you find this message you are surely blessed.’

Below this note were a few gmail addresses that we unfortunately could not decipher, along with a sail boat drawing with the funny disclaimer ‘not drawn to scale’.

Wishfully, I would hope that this post some day, might make a connection between the Independence and Quiet. If anyone out there knows of a four person crew on the sailboat Quiet, please give them this web address. We owe them a bottle of wine!

The beach where the bottle landed at Green Turtle Cay

Larry with his find

The contents of the bottle; the original faded note, the reconstructed version of the note, the dollar from Trinidad & Tobago and the bracelet

The bottle as Larry found it

Bahamas!!!

And we’re off!!! Heading out the intracoastal to the Bahamas.

We did it! We got out of the harbor and made the crossing to the Bahamas (and back…of course). After three days preparing, fueling and provisioning the Independence she was ready to leave her slip at the Bluffs Marina in Jupiter, Florida on the morning of Saturday, October 13th, 2018. A few days prior to our departure our friends at Nordhavn offered to provide us with a licensed Captain and we said “of course and thank you!”. So, our sturdy crew, of two Captains (Larry and Dan) and Chris Adams (fearless member of the Tuesday Night, LLC mountain bike club) and myself left the harbor and made the crossing in approximately eight hours. We docked at Old Bahama Bay Marina at West End. The crossing was relatively uneventful with minor issues relating to our auto pilot navigation system (ultimately resolved on our return crossing). Larry and Dan discussed the finer points of the navigation systems and Chris and I learned the art of chart reading and plotting along with the handling and use of lines and fenders. Eventually, we all had time at the helm to keep a watchful eye on that gorgeous blue-green water. We checked in with immigration at the customs office and stayed the night at Old Bahama Bay. The next day we navigated a very shallow area (a different kind of cardio workout) by Memory Rock into the Little Bahama Bank. A five hour cruise brought us to our anchorage at Great Sale Cay. There we learned anchoring techniques, laying chain and diving the anchor. The following day (another five hour cruise) brought us to our final stop at Green Turtle Bay Marina in the Abaco Islands. Captain Dan Collins left us on our own at that point…thank you Dan, we all learned so much. The remaining two days were spent exploring Green Turtle Cay by rented golf cart and our tender. I can’t say enough about the amazingly friendly people of the Bahamas, the beguiling wildlife and the gorgeous views, sunrises and sunsets. Hopefully the following pictures will give you an idea of how special and lovely the Bahamas are. The return trip was played in reverse, with repeats at Great Sale Cay and Old Bahama Bay. The return crossing was a bit more ‘active’ as the swells were about five to six feet and the weather was getting a bit on the windy side. Larry did an awesome job and got us back to the slip in seven hours. Thank you Chris for helping us shake-down the Independence. We look forward to more cruises with you and Sue!

The middle of no-where and he lands on Larry! Photo Chris Adams

Old Bahama Bay Marina, West End, Bahamas

This Manatee welcomed us to Old Bahama Bay, West End. Photo Chris Adams

We made it! Eight hours & all checked in with customs & Immigration & flying the Bahamas flag. Photo Dan Collins

The conch alive & well inside his sunset colored home

Our slip for the night at Old Bahama Bay Marina with the customs house in the background. Photo Larry McCullough

On our way to Green Turtle Bay

Captain Dan & the sunset at our anchorage at Great Sale Cay. Photo Larry McCullough

Make it so

The to do list grows as we sit in Tiburon, California eagerly awaiting each trip back to The Independence, now in a hurricane hold in Jupiter, Florida. But slowly each of the items is getting tended to and crossed off that list. The arch has had a hinge installed so we can pass underneath the Chicago Bridge in the Intracoastal Waterway. The tender has been purchased and installed on the fly bridge’s aft deck. Bottom paint, zincs, line-cutters, water-makers, stabilizers, converters, yacht-controllers; each checked, the list is getting smaller. The boat is getting lower in the water as we jam must-haves and can’t-live-with-outs into free checked bags and purchase galley items and bed linens, NO, I have not purchased throw-pillows as I believe our boat came with no less then twenty. The name has been placed on the stern. Boat calling cards were made and printed…yes, this is ‘a thing’. One of the most satisfying items completed was having our first dinner party and overnight guests. Nothing says welcome aboard like a couple of chilled Don Lorenzo’s and some hot chicken curry. Next up on the list…getting out of the harbor!!!

Hauled out in Cracker Boy Boat Yard. July in Florida…90 degrees plus on the blacktop.

Hinge installation in the fly bridge arch

Gene ready to install the line-cutters.

Our new tender.

Our first overnight guests help us celebrate naming the boat.

Our first dinner party on the boat.

You bought a boat?!?

When our friends and family heard we bought the boat many were surprised. After trying to sell a second home for a few years and finally succeeding, I believe many thought we would just like to enjoy that sense of accomplishment…a very sensible reaction I might add. The purchasing of the boat was pretty straight forward; walking aboard many times and looking at this and that and then a sea-trial and a haul-out and dinners and more talking and more looking…finally some check writing and a few tequilas at the local bar. So, now we are boat owners and I can share the layout and specs of the boat to anyone who might be interested. I have posted more photos in the images location.

The Nordhavn Sales Brochure Hull No. 1 - our boat