Some readers may not know that Larry and I attempted this adventure, toward Alaska, two years ago. For many reasons we aborted and ended up selling our beloved and wonderful Nordhavn Coastal Pilot - Independence. Now, with Independence II, we have broken new seas that we did not get to, two years ago. We have made it through many hurdles; the Seymour Narrows, Johnstone Strait, the open ocean and Cape Caution…and one more…our first night at anchor on Independence II.

The entry to Codville Lagoon anchorage could be easily overlooked without charts. You slip through a narrow opening of perhaps 100 feet and travel down and around little fingers until you find your perfect spot…kinda like Goldilocks…one is too deep, one is too close to the rock wall, and one is just perfect (perhaps a topic for a future Captain’s Post?). Our perfect spot to drop the anchor was in 20 feet of water and we let out over a 120 feet of chain & rope (for a night forecasted without wind). The night was calm, the skies cleared a bit and we enjoyed a peaceful late afternoon and evening on the hook.

Exiting Codville Lagoon on a beautiful morning after a really pleasant night at anchor

The following morning brought gorgeous sunshine for our short and breathtakingly beautiful transit to Ocean Falls. Dramatic, tree covered mountains that plunge into the sea. My photos do not do the scenery justice…it is far more stunning.

Ocean Falls with the highly visible dam and spillway

With a search on Google, this came up for Ocean Falls prior to its daming in 1916-1917

We dock at the sweet little Ocean Falls Harbour. Eva, the dock manager, comes to greet us. She is so very kind and gracious and we end up doing a fantastic hike through the forest with her the next day. Eva has lived in Ocean Falls for over 20 years and had a great wealth of knowledge about her town.

In the early 1900’s Ocean Falls was targeted as a Mill Town due to the massive quantity of water that falls from the sky onto the steep mountains and collects in 3 upstream lakes that emptied over a massive waterfall. The waterfall was dammed for it’s hydroelectric power, a Pulp Mill built and 3,500 people lived in Ocean Falls until it’s slow and eventual demise during the ‘70’s & final death in 1983. The town currently retains about 50 residents that live in this beautiful, serene and VERY wet location (over 150 inches of rain annually - the locals are named ‘Rain People’). They enjoying world class fishing, crabbing and prawning in any weather.

Speaking of weather…we will be docked safely at Ocean Falls Harbour for three nights, as a major storm is on the coast and we are so very thankful to be done with that portion of the trip!

Larry screenshot this epic vortex from Windy for Sunday the 24th. The winds in the color magenta are 35+MPH with waves of 8 ft every 12 seconds!!!. This is the area we transited just a few days ago.

Eva lent us her copy of *Rain People*, by Bruce Ramsey. A great book on the history of Ocean Falls. The cover photo gives you an idea of the massive Link Lake(s) that were dammed for the hydroelectric power.

The map of Ocean Falls township from 1949 - Its’heyday. Map also from Bruce Ramsey’s book *Rain People*

The Martin Inn completed in 1953 and once one of the largest and busiest in BC

Sweet Eva takes us on an epic walk in the rain forest

Massive tree stumps from the old growth felled for building or the Pulp Mill

The Japanese Baby Cemetery. Many appeared to be stillborn or passed within a month. Japanese labor was very important to the Pulp Mill operations but the support for young mothers was not available. Combined with poor pay, poor prenatal diet and lack of hospital access the outlook was bleak.

Kind people in the sailboat ‘Songbird’ gave us some of their fresh Dungeness crab

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pib4zS2Vaeo

The City They Burned: The Rise, Fall, and Last Residents of a Forgotten Canadian Town.

Above is a link to a great video on Ocean Falls featuring Eva (the wonderful dock manager) and her husband Rob - an original ‘Rain People’ born and raised!!!